Experiencing the midmorning tranquility on the Dolores River, one could sense the recent transformation of the water from snow. Our guide, Samy, informed us that the water was approximately 48 degrees Fahrenheit. With skill and precision, she maneuvered the boat to ensure that the paddlers in the front got wet while she remained dry in the back. The white water was exciting and rolling, yet not intimidating. However, it gained momentum as we continued downstream.
We found ourselves in Colorado’s Ponderosa Gorge, where the towering pine trees emitted a dusty cinnamon scent. The red-rock cliffs boasted a vibrant display of new green growth. As the day progressed, the canyon became deeper, redder, and more angular. I constantly removed my sunglasses to verify the authenticity of the colors before my eyes.
Although our adventure with Mild2Wild Rafting was a single-day trip based in Durango, Colorado, the Dolores River stretches for 173 miles, allowing for uninterrupted rafting experiences lasting around ten days. Eventually, the Dolores River merges with the Colorado River, just over the Utah state line. Along the rapid-filled red-rock canyon, boaters pass by remnants of granaries built by the Ancestral Puebloans, as well as panels of petroglyphs and pictographs. Bear scratches can be observed on the massive ponderosa trees, while river otters frolic in the eddies. Threatened native fish journey upstream, and the river banks are adorned with blooming fendlerbush. The Dolores River serves as a connecting thread, carving its way through one of Colorado’s largest remaining untouched landscapes. In 1975, it became the first waterway in the state to be designated for Wild and Scenic protection.
However, the river is only navigable when there is an adequate volume of water, and unfortunately, the river channel is frequently dry due to over-allocated water rights. McPhee Dam, located upstream of the gorge, only releases water in years when there is more than sufficient inflow to meet the legal obligations of rights holders. Prior to this spring, the river’s last run was in 2019, and experts predict that conditions will become even hotter and drier in the future.
Alex Mickel, president of Mild2Wild Rafting, expressed, “Any time you can experience the Dolores River is special. There’s no other river that offers such diverse environments, making it an unparalleled multi-day trip. It’s disheartening that it only runs occasionally.”
I embarked on my journey in June, but the Dolores River’s rafting season concluded by early July. However, due to an unusually snowy winter across the Western region, rivers that typically do not reach raftable levels this late in the year or remain dry are currently flowing at full force this summer. As record-breaking temperatures dominate the country, providing relief from the heat with the opportunity to get wet. Here are five rivers having remarkable seasons that will continue into the fall.
California:
Kern River
After a three-year period where rafting on the Kern River was impossible due to a combination of the COVID-19 pandemic and droughts, this season’s high flow has broken a 40-year record, and the river is still open for rafting. Matt Volper, who operates Kern River Outfitters, explains that the Kern River will have excellent flow until Thanksgiving and possibly beyond. This season has been unparalleled and extraordinary. The Kern River originates from the southern end of the Sierra Nevada mountains, carving through granite canyons formed by ancient glaciers. Rapids on the Kern River are graded between Class 1 and Class 6, with Class 1 being calm waters and Class 6 considered extremely dangerous. Skilled paddlers can enjoy the challenging 17-mile Forks of the Kern section, classified as Class 5, until August. The Lower Kern section, which offers a more moderate experience with swimming holes and opportunities for cliff jumping, will continue to run through August. The Lower Kern two-day trip is a popular choice, starting at $419.
Merced River
An exciting aspect of this season is the prolonged rafting availability on undammed rivers. Bob Ferguson, the founder of Zephyr Whitewater Expeditions, notes that the rivers will remain raftable until September, thanks to the record-breaking snowpack that continues to melt in Yosemite Valley. This extended season is rare and exceptional. Previously, the Merced River experienced low flows, preventing rafting trips. However, this year, the river reached peak levels, leading to the closure of Yosemite National Park due to high water levels. Rafting flows have now returned to safe levels, and the Merced River remains open. Designated as Wild and Scenic in 1987, the Merced River offers not only breathtaking visuals but also serves as a habitat for various wildlife, including the unique limestone salamander. Half-day trips start at $113.
Oregon:
Upper Klamath River
This season brings mixed emotions for boaters on the upper Klamath River. Despite the impending removal of four dams on the Klamath in 2024, which will restore fisheries and tribal water rights, one section of the river, Hell’s Corner, will become unnavigable due to inconsistent water flow. This year marks the final opportunity to experience this thrilling section. Pete Wallstrom, owner of Momentum River Expeditions, acknowledges the importance of ecosystem restoration while expressing sadness regarding the loss of one of the country’s best rivers for whitewater novices. The upper Klamath carves through a scenic high-desert basalt canyon, featuring 17 miles of diverse rapids ranging from the mild Class 2 to the exhilarating continuous Class 4. Trips on Hell’s Corner will be available until the end of this summer, with guaranteed flows until Labor Day. Day trips start at $220.
Utah:
Cataract Canyon
While the Grand Canyon may be more renowned, experienced boaters recognize that the biggest rapids on the Colorado River lie upstream in the 46-mile Cataract Canyon. This stretch originates from Canyonlands National Park and merges into the north end of Lake Powell. Towering red-rock walls envelop the canyon, hosting the infamous Big Drop Rapids, including Satan’s Gut and Little Niagara. The canyon earned its name, Cataract, from John Wesley Powell, who likened the rapids to waterfalls. As Cataract Canyon is located upstream from major dams and reservoirs, the water flow can vary throughout the season. This year, after Utah experienced record-breaking snowfall, the river is running at high levels. Companies like Mild2Wild will offer rafting trips until at least October, providing the opportunity for multi-day excursions into the canyon for $1,499.
Colorado:
Gunnison Gorge
The Blue Mesa Reservoir near Gunnison, Colorado, has seen significant water level increases compared to last year. With levels approximately 20% higher than average, this serves as a vital relief for both the area and the downstream Gunnison River. Downstream from Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, the spectacular 14-mile Gunnison Gorge showcases billions of years of geologic history within its narrow, dark walls. The trip offers not only stunning scenery but also world-class trout fishing. As the river meanders downstream, it passes through over 30 rapids per mile. Despite its captivating features, the Gunnison Gorge tends to be less crowded due to a short hike to the put-in spot. However, the hike is well worth it for the experience awaiting adventurers. Guided trips will continue through September with outfitters such as Gunnison River Expeditions, and day trips start at $155.
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