Review: The Pelican, London – An Exquisite Gastropub Experience

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I must admit that I wasn’t expecting a dazzling experience from The Pelican. A gastropub in Notting Hill wouldn’t typically be my top choice, but it was conveniently located for my lunch with my daughter, who is studying design engineering. As we sat down in the cozy Victorian pub that housed The Pelican, she shared her thoughts on design theory. She explained how an object, structure, or process should be designed to perfection and then stripped down to its bare minimum, ensuring cost-effectiveness and maximum function. Despite my mind wandering to the ornate architecture of the building, I found her conversation riveting.

The menu arrived, concise and filled with familiar British favorites like oysters, beetroot, and Barnsley chop. The blank space on the menu piqued my curiosity, which soon gave way to excitement as the waitress filled it with the day’s specials. It was a delightful and unnecessary touch, considering the specials were already written on a mirror opposite us. Nevertheless, it provided an opportunity for engaging in conversation about the food and getting enthused by the details.

The menu itself wasn’t groundbreaking, but that’s what made it so appealing. Instead of trying to impress with trendy twists or surprises, The Pelican chose to focus on delivering familiar and beloved dishes. They didn’t hold back in proclaiming the deliciousness of each item, which was simple, elegant, and effective.

According to our waitress, the langoustines had just been grilled, and she wasn’t exaggerating. The scorching process brought out about 95% of their flavor, reminiscent of a charcoal grill on a Hebridean beach. The sashimi-like interior had a pleasant sweetness that complemented the perfectly cooked langos. It was clear that only the best and most expensive langoustines were used, and the simplicity of the preparation showcased their quality.

Mince on toast has made a comeback, but it can never compare to the revivifying dishes my mother used to make with scraps from the butcher. The Pelican takes a different approach by buying a whole cow every fortnight and using the minced trim in a strong demi-glace made from the bones. The result is sublime, with a conceptual weight that captures the process of utilizing the entire animal. It’s a beautifully crafted dish served on toast.

Butterhead lettuces are a rarity in today’s supermarkets. Their big, open leaves don’t fare well on the shelves, but they evoke memories of English summer picnics. At The Pelican, they deconstruct the lettuce and reassemble it in a flat bowl to resemble a blown peony. A vibrant vinaigrette made with English mustard is drizzled over it, creating a seductive combination. Eating it requires folding each leaf into a neat package and savoring every bite. There was something special about every dish at The Pelican, polished to perfection and radiating with extra flair.

The onglet steak comes with a peppercorn sauce that would be textbook if it weren’t for the pungent peppercorns and flavorful demi-glace. The lemon sole with brown butter may seem standard, but grilling it on a thin metal plate adds a delightful crispiness to the subtly fatty skin. Triple-cooked chips are now commonplace, unless they come with freshly made roasted garlic aioli.

Two days before our lunch, I had a soul-draining experience at a high-street chain restaurant. Nothing was explicitly bad, but every aspect of the meal was meticulously designed to cater to the lowest common denominator. The ingredients, the service, and the environment were carefully calculated to maximize profit without aiming to delight. It reminded me of the bleakness portrayed in 1984, leaving me worn down with a sense of hopelessness.

Ironically, from my daughter’s perspective, The Pelican’s design would be considered appalling. They exceed expectations in every aspect, refusing to settle for anything less than greatness. Rather than creating an experience that simply avoids being bad, they have created one that is exceptional and leaves a lasting impression. I’m grateful that The Pelican deviates from the norm.