Located in Lilienblum, near Old Street in east London, is Israeli chef Eyal Shani’s latest venture. Lilienblum is a more upscale establishment compared to his pitta restaurant, Miznon, in Soho and Notting Hill. However, Shani’s chaotic spirit remains intact.
If you recall from my previous visit to Miznon, Shani has a penchant for using extravagant language when describing his dishes. The menu at Lilienblum boasts phrases like “Six spicy instruments that will swirl your soul,” which turns out to be a mixed plate of runny, oily meze-style dips made from roast red peppers, chopped green pepper, and matbucha variations, some of which are hot with aleppo pepper. Unfortunately, the nitty gritty details of this delightful plate can only be discovered through ordering and hoping for the best.
The servers at Lilienblum are bright and helpful, and are trained in translating the cacophony of terms in the noisy room. They translate the menu, adding to the mystery and intrigue of the dishes. The “Six Spicy Instruments” did not come with bread, so I ordered a dish called “It’s a very bad idea to order this but there will be no regrets.” This dish turned out to be two pieces of crunchy focaccia topped with a generous quenelle of cream cheese, honey, and pouring cream. While it was richer than any dessert, it was completely irresistible and not suitable for dipping in meze, unless you are wearing spongeable coveralls.
While nothing at Lilienblum is straightforward, what sets it apart from being annoying is the exceptional cooking. Both Shani’s vision and head chef Oren King’s skill and attention to flavor shine through. King, having previously worked at acclaimed restaurants such as Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Roka, and Hide, brings opulence and attention to detail to Lilienblum. The mesabaha of lima beans and hard-boiled egg is extremely good and spicy, while the aubergine “melanzana” terrine surpasses anything I have eaten at Italian restaurants.
King’s cooking style can be described as an elegant and earthy mashup of Honey & Co and The Palomar, with a menu curated by Shani, who writes dish descriptions with the intensity of someone pitching sitcom ideas at a dance tent. Somehow, this eclectic combination works harmoniously at Lilienblum.
During my first visit, I immediately considered Lilienblum as a destination to recommend to others due to its exceptional flavors. The cocktail list includes Eyal martinis priced at £12 each, and the house white is a viognier priced at £35 per bottle. There is also sparkling Israeli pet nat available for £65.
Lilienblum is a spacious venue suitable for groups looking for a civilized place to socialize in the lively Old Street/Shoreditch area. However, it is the food that truly brings the mayhem. We tried the hamachi sashimi, which was skillfully cut and served in a subtle ponzu-style dressing. From the more affordable options, we ordered the minute steak tahini, a flavorful dish of meat drenched in sesame with chopped tomatoes. While it felt relatively cheap-and-cheerful at £22, the prices increase for dishes like lamb chops with salat aravi, which are priced at £48.
Desserts at Lilienblum are reasonably priced at £8 and are worth saving room for. The lemony pistachio cake was a delightful treat with a moist, raspberry-embossed bottom, accompanied by fresh cream and raspberries. The homemade naked chocolate cake was thick and rich, served with more fresh cream and garnished with strawberries. The chocolate mousse was complemented by fresh, warm, salted butter cookies that were exceptionally good. Unfortunately, the Basque cheesecake was not available during my visit, but the mere thought of it has lingered with me since.
In a restaurant landscape where desserts are often an afterthought, Lilienblum aims to make them as important as their “hummus just the way we like it” or their “abundance of salad brightened with chardonnay and EVOO.” Shani has plans for two more restaurants in London soon. Lilienblum and Miznon can be described in many ways, but never as boring.
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