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The proliferation of wine competitions has posed a challenge. Leading producers choose not to participate due to the risk of losing more than gaining. Gold and silver medals, at best, highlight emerging or established producers who outperform their peers. Despite this, I thoroughly enjoyed attending the annual Trophy Wine Show organized by renowned South African wine writer Michael Fridjhon and his team. Although not the only wine competition in the country, this event maintains a rigorous standard. I was fortunate to be an overseas judge in 2003 (accompanied by my mother-in-law) and again in 2007 (without a sense of smell, which added an interesting twist).
This year, I was convinced to return to gain a better understanding of what is happening in the mainstream South African wine scene, beyond what I typically taste at UK presentations that tend to focus on the new-wave producers shaking up the Cape wine industry over the past decade. Names like Sadie, Mullineux, Rall, and Savage were noticeably absent from the list of competitors.
Fridjhon insisted that I judge the 69 entries in the Shiraz/Syrah category to witness the progress. He explained how this category was the weakest back in 2007, with young vines and winemakers lacking experience in handling their produce, leading to high levels of spoilage due to brettanomyces infection, commonly known as “brett”. This yeast can infect a barrel or an entire winery, imparting aromas ranging from adhesive bandages to animal-like notes. Individuals vary in their susceptibility and exposure to brett. At the Trophy Wine Show, like elsewhere, younger tasters showed less tolerance for brett.
While I can’t recall every South African Shiraz I tasted in 2007, the 2023 class was quite decent, although the majority seemed to exhibit characteristics more aligned with full-bodied Australian Shiraz rather than the more fashionable fragrant style associated with the Syrah wines of the Northern Rhône. Many Cape wine regions might be too warm to produce fresh Syrah, although I came across several the day before judging during my tour of Cape Agulhas wine country on the southernmost tip of Africa. One of my favorites from the show was Strandveld’s 2020 Syrah from that region. However, when the scores were averaged, our panel of four judges awarded it only a silver medal, possibly considering it too light. I hope to witness the emergence of a definitive South African style of Shiraz/Syrah, but I can’t say I observed it in last month’s judging.
In the Shiraz/Syrah category, all four gold medals (and three of the nine silvers) were awarded to wines labeled as Syrah rather than Shiraz. Two of these gold medals went to wines produced in relatively cool regions. Villiersdorp winery, situated within the new wine appellation of Theewater in the cool Cape South Coast region, presented a notably gentle 2020 Syrah that showcased the fruit flavors rather than oak dominance.
Bloemendal’s Tyger Syrah, sourced from a single vineyard in the maritime Durbanville region, stood out. Being a 2016 vintage, it was one of the oldest wines in the blind tasting. The other two gold medals went to Old Road’s 12 Mile Syrah 2021 from Swartland and Oldenburg’s Stone Axe Syrah 2021 from Rondekop in the Banghoek Valley, outside Stellenbosch.
The remaining two days of judging were dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays, with a small selection of Pinot Noirs. South Africa has long been a reliable source of excellent-value Chardonnays, benefiting from the cooling influence of the ocean. This particular category proved to be the most successful for white wines in the entire competition, with five gold medals (all 2022 vintages) and six silver medals awarded. One standout choice was Bon Courage’s Unwooded Chardonnay from limestone-rich Robertson in the Western Cape. This wine was entirely unoaked and priced under €8 in Germany and the Netherlands. The most intriguing appellation discovered was Tradouw in the Klein Karoo region, featuring Survivor winery’s delightful Cellar Master Series 2022 Chardonnay. This wine had slightly higher residual sugar than most, but it was well-balanced by its persistent character and potential. The vineyard, situated on the Tradouw-Joubert farm on the southwestern edge of the Klein Karoo, benefits from its 700m altitude and relatively good rainfall. The Klein Karoo region is historically known for fortified wines, making this Chardonnay an exciting departure.
South African Pinot Noir is still a category in progress, with only one silver medal awarded and no gold medals. The lone silver went to Paul Cluver’s Estate Pinot Noir 2021 from the cool Elgin region. As for the Cabernets tasted on the final day, we seemed to have been overly generous with silver medals, awarding 15 of them alongside four gold medals. South African vines have long battled leafroll virus, which can hinder full ripening. However, the best wines showcased no signs of this challenge. One of our gold medalists, Spier’s 2018 Cabernet, boasted 15% alcohol content. My personal favorite was Neil Ellis’s 2019 Cabernet-dominated Bordeaux blend from Stellenbosch. This wine displayed a good tannic structure, dryness rather than sweetness, and a slightly less ripe style compared to Spier’s offering. The other two gold medal-winning Cabernets also hailed from Stellenbosch, with Louisvale’s Five Barrels 2020 showing maturity and Eikendal’s glamorous 2013 still having room to evolve.
In summary, my experience judging this wine competition has taught me that Stellenbosch truly excels at producing excellent Cabernet, South African Chardonnay is a reliable choice, South African wines overall provide great value, and the sense of smell greatly enhances the enjoyment of life. I will leave you with a list of gold medal-winning wines from the competition that are available in the UK.
– MAN Family Wines, Free-run Steen Chenin Blanc 2022, Cape Coast, 13.5% ABV (£13.36, Great Wines Direct)
– Laborie Blanc de Blancs Cap Classique 2017, Western Cape, 12.5% ABV (£15.95, The Dorset Wine Co)
– Benguela Cove Lagoon Estate Chardonnay 2022, Walker Bay, 13.6% ABV (£16, Benguela Cove – West Sussex; £17.95, Alteus Wines – East Sussex)
– Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Stellenbosch, 14.4% ABV (£22.95, South Downs Cellars)
– Vergelegen GVB White Blend 2021, Stellenbosch, 13.4% ABV (£24.28, Lay & Wheeler)
– Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2020, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 14% ABV (£25.85, VINVM)
For detailed tasting notes, scores, and suggested drinking dates, please visit Purple Pages on JancisRobinson.com. You can also find international stockists on Wine-searcher.com. Be sure to follow @FTMag on Twitter to stay updated on our latest stories.
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