Restaurant Review: The Empire Café in Leeds Excels in Doing the Right Things

The Empire Café, located at 6 Fish Street in Leeds LS1 6DB, offers a variety of delectable dishes at affordable prices. Indulge in their breakfast baps starting at £4.50, or explore their small plates ranging from £8 to £12. If you’re feeling extra hungry, their large plates are priced between £15 and £20. Don’t forget to save room for their tempting desserts, priced at £9. Pair your meal with a fine wine selection starting at £25.

The Empire Café in Leeds is a culinary gem that takes full advantage of its unique history. Yorkshire chef Sam Pullan, formerly of the Bear at Carriages in Knaresborough, turned this corner space, once known as La Strega, into a café called Appys. However, during renovations in 2020, they discovered a remarkable sign for the Empire Café, reminiscent of the famous Empire Theatre nearby. This serendipitous find led Pullan to embrace the heritage of the space, which had been a dining room since 1884.

With a keen eye for the area’s rich history, Pullan saw an opportunity to revive the Empire Café’s all-day dining legacy. The café sources its produce from the nearby Kirkgate, ensuring the freshest ingredients for their delectable offerings. From delicious bacon baps served from a street hatch to flame-roasted rotisserie chickens, the Empire Café offers an array of savory delights. They have also ventured into steak suppers, cocktails, and more modern menu items that would have astonished locals in the past.

The café offers a unique dining experience, with a hatch directly from the kitchen to the street, serving up culinary delights even after breakfast hours. The bacon bap I ordered proved to be worth every penny, with a soft, generously filled bap showcasing thick-cut, smoked, streaky bacon. The Empire Café’s breakfast menu is truly exceptional, featuring steak and eggs with chimichurri and fried potatoes for £12, or the desi chana, a flavorful dish of spiced chickpeas, tomato, and tamarind, served with flaky roti for £8.

While the café feels reminiscent of a traditional diner, its ambiance leans more towards a restaurant setting. The neatly painted interior boasts wall banquettes, high-top tables, and an intimate dining area in the basement. Candlelit tables create a cozy atmosphere, perfect for enjoying lunch or dinner. On warmer days, patrons can opt for outdoor seating.

The lunch and dinner menus highlight the café’s signature rotisserie chickens, slowly cooking to achieve a perfectly crisp and flavorful skin. These generously sized birds are priced at £29 for a whole chicken and £17 for a half. But the menu doesn’t stop there. Diners can choose from a range of sauces and seasonings, such as garlic, lemon, tarragon, gochujang, ginger, jalapeno, lime, and miso. The Empire Café also offers an enticing selection of small plates priced between £8 and £12, including a visually stunning duck éclair and a pinwheel of celeriac with truffle aioli.

Non-meat dishes are given just as much attention as the meaty offerings. Options like smoked corn on the cob with banana chilli mole, a savory reblochon custard tart, and a mixed grill of aubergines, sweetcorn, pak choi, and mushrooms ensure there’s something for everyone.

While the café excels in many areas, there may be a few slight missteps. For example, the chicken schmaltz potatoes could have been crisper and more golden. Additionally, the miso caramel on the hot chocolate pudding was a bit overpowering. However, these minor issues are easily overshadowed by the overall charm and enthusiasm of the Empire Café.

For dessert, indulge in a hot, crisp waffle topped with a dollop of sweetened cream, brown breadcrumbs, maple syrup, and a foam reminiscent of a cup of Yorkshire tea. This cozy treat is the perfect way to end your meal.

Reflecting their commitment to their Yorkshire roots, the Empire Café’s email address is [email protected]. This attention to detail is just one of the many reasons I can’t wait to return.

In other news:
– Stuart Ralston, chef-owner of Aizle, Noto, and Tipo in Edinburgh, is taking over the restaurant space previously occupied by the late Paul Kitching. Ralston’s new 28-cover restaurant, Lyla, will offer a £145, 10-course seafood tasting menu starting from 6 October.
– The London Shell Co, a unique restaurant on a narrowboat in London’s Paddington, is hosting a night of oyster fun to raise funds for the Fishermen’s Mission. Cooks and chefs from various establishments will showcase their oyster creations on 12 September. Tickets, priced at £75, include glasses of fizz, sausage rolls, and more.
– Liverpool is now home to Gravity Max, an entertainment venue that combines mini-golf, augmented reality bowling, and E-Karting with a comprehensive food court. Featured outlets include Coco de Mama, The Athenian, Wendy’s, and Creams dessert bar. With a capacity for 2,500 people, Gravity Max offers a unique experience for all.

Reference

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