Summer trips to France for me have always involved daily visits to the local market and delightful garden lunches. The key to both experiences is to purchase an assortment of delicious and easily prepared foods. And if I happen to come across a small hard goat’s cheese at the cheese stall, it’s definitely a bonus – I always like to crumble it over my summer salads.
Fennel, Egg, and Anchovy Salad
The finest anchovies in France can be found in Collioure and they rival the best Spanish anchovies. If needed, Spanish anchovies can be used as a substitute.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Resting time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Serves 4
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed
Juice of ½ lemon
1 small red chilli, finely chopped (discard stalk, pith, and seeds)
½ tsp thyme leaves, picked
Sea salt and black pepper
Olive oil
4 eggs
1 slice sourdough bread
1 garlic clove, peeled
8 Collioure anchovy fillets
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1-2 tbsp red wine vinegar
Thinly slice the fennel (a mandoline works well for this), then place it in a bowl with lemon juice, chilli, thyme, and a generous amount of sea salt. Set it aside for an hour, allowing the fennel to cure slightly and release its juices.
Stir in about three tablespoons of olive oil into the fennel mixture. Cover and set it aside while you prepare the rest of the salad.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, carefully add the eggs, and cook for eight minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water, and peel once they have cooled down.
Cut the bread into small cubes, then fry them with a tablespoon or two of olive oil and the whole garlic clove until they turn golden brown and crispy. Drain on kitchen towels to remove excess oil, discard the garlic, and lightly season with salt and pepper.
Arrange the fennel on a platter. Halve the eggs and place them cut side down on the fennel. Top each egg half with an anchovy fillet. In a bowl, combine the fried bread and parsley, then sprinkle the mixture over the salad. Finish with a drizzle of red wine vinegar to taste.
Cucumber, Mint, and Harissa Salad
This salad is a delightful accompaniment to grilled fish or barbecued lamb chops. It can also complement a butterflied leg of lamb.
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Steeping time: 1 hour
Assembly time: 10 minutes
Serves 4
2 cucumbers
1 red onion
Sea salt and black pepper
1 tsp harissa
4 tbsp Greek yoghurt
Lemon juice, to taste
1 small bunch fresh mint, picked
Peel and dice the cucumbers, then place them in a bowl. Peel and finely dice the red onion, add it to the bowl, and sprinkle with a scant teaspoon of salt. Mix well, then transfer the mixture to a colander set over a bowl and let it sit for an hour to allow the cucumbers to release their juices.
Rinse the cucumber mixture thoroughly to remove the salt, which may take a few minutes. Taste to ensure all the salt has been washed off. Drain well, pat dry with a clean tea towel, then return the mixture to the bowl. Add harissa and yoghurt, stir to combine, and adjust the seasoning with a squeeze of lemon juice.
Transfer the salad to a serving bowl, roughly tear the mint leaves, and sprinkle them over the top. Serve the salad fresh.
Broad Bean, Pea, Green Bean, and Bayonne Ham Salad
At the beginning of the season, when broad beans are small, sweet, and tender, I usually leave them in their pale-green outer skins. As the summer progresses, however, the skins become quite tough, so I prefer to peel them.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Serves 4
200g fine green beans
150g shelled broad beans
150g shelled peas
1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp grain mustard
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
250g crème fraîche
Salt and black pepper
2 small shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
3 slices Bayonne ham (or similar)
50g salted roasted almonds, roughly chopped
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook the green beans for four minutes, the broad beans for two and a half minutes, and the peas for two minutes. Drain and rinse them all in cold water to cool them down and preserve their color.
In a large salad bowl, mix the two mustards and vinegar, then stir in the crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper. Add the shallots and cooled vegetables, mix well, then tear the ham into pieces and scatter them over the salad along with the chopped almonds.
Melon and Strawberry Salad
In Cognac, it is common to serve melon with pineau des Charentes, the delightful sweet aperitif of the region, at the beginning of a meal. By adding a few strawberries, a simple dessert salad can be prepared in no time. Mint leaves are often suggested, but they are not necessary for this refreshing dish.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Resting time: 30 minutes
Serves 4
1 ripe Cavaillon melon (or Charentais or Cantaloupe), or similar
500g strawberries
250ml chilled pineau des Charentes (serve the rest of the bottle alongside)
Halve, peel, and deseed the melon. Cut it into chunks and place them in a bowl. Hull and halve the strawberries, then mix them with the melon. Pour the pineau over the fruits, gently stir to combine, and let it sit for half an hour before serving.
For an added touch, consider making brandy snaps and filling them with whipped cream.
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