Growing up in Puerto Rico, the mantra of “apoya lo local” resonated deeply. It was a tribute to our ancestors’ resilience in the face of Spanish dominion and American influence. However, even as we walked the aisles of the supermarket, a dilemma presented itself. In the meticulously organized produce section, the locally grown yuca and ñame, proudly labeled “Hecho en Puerto Rico,” competed against import produce that was far more affordable. Grocery shopping turned into a decision with significant economic implications. Supporting our roots often came with a hefty price tag.
Today, Puerto Rico is faced with a harsh reality. Despite its tropical climate that enables year-round farming, the island imports over 80% of its food. This leaves its people, including farmers and chefs, at the mercy of outside powers, such as the Jones Act. This law, established in the 1920s, dictates that only U.S.-owned and operated ships can handle maritime cargo transport to Puerto Rico and other non-continental U.S. territories. As a result, shipping costs to Puerto Rico increase, impacting the island’s economy and budget.
The higher shipping costs associated with the Jones Act create a competitive disadvantage for Puerto Rican farmers, making it difficult for local agriculture to thrive. This leads to reduced production and higher prices for consumers on the island. Many Puerto Ricans cannot afford to support local producers or pay the premium prices. Since 2006, the island has been in an economic recession, and the agricultural sector now only contributes less than 1% to Puerto Rico’s GDP. Natural disasters like hurricanes and earthquakes have further exposed the vulnerability of the island’s food supply chains, highlighting the need for a more sustainable approach.
Amidst these challenges, visionary Puerto Rican farmers and chefs are spearheading a transformative movement to combat the island’s dependence on food imports. One such leader is Chef Manuel Massa, who showcases the vast potential of locally sourced ingredients at his restaurant, Cocina Abierta. With a commitment to sourcing 80% to 92% of the restaurant’s ingredients from the island, Massa and his team create innovative dishes that celebrate Puerto Rico’s agricultural abundance. Although it is challenging to consistently include local products on the menu and connect with local producers, Massa believes that prioritizing sourcing locally has the most long-term impact.
Frutos del Guacabo, a family-run farm in Gurabo, is another key player in this movement. Led by Efren Robles, the farm works similarly to co-ops, distributing agricultural products from different parts of Puerto Rico and collaborating closely with chefs like Massa to grow specific ingredients based on their needs. They employ sustainable practices like permaculture and hydroponics, making high-quality produce more accessible on the island.
Puerto Ricans are becoming more aware of their food reality after experiencing hurricanes and empty supermarket shelves. The island has lost nearly 440,000 people in the past decade, as individuals venture to the mainland in search of greater economic opportunities. However, there are those like Chef Ibrahim Sanz who remain and are determined to contribute to a future where Puerto Rico is fully sustainable.
As the culinary director at the Hyatt Regency in Río Grande, Sanz developed a farm-to-table initiative that focuses on partnering with local suppliers, reducing food miles, and supporting the local economy. When he first joined the team, only a small percentage of the hotel’s produce was sourced locally. Now, they use 85% local ingredients, including those from Frutos del Guacabo. Sanz believes that chefs have the responsibility to open doors for small farmers, demonstrating to the government that Puerto Rico has the potential to export high-quality produce if freed from the constraints of the Jones Act.
Sanz goes to great lengths to find local ingredients, such as personally traveling to buy from street coconut vendors instead of ordering imported coconuts. He also revives the “mercadito” experience where tourists and locals can enjoy traditional Puerto Rican treats. These efforts are inspired by Sanz’s cherished childhood memories and his belief that sourcing local produce is not just a culinary choice, but a necessity.
Supporting local farmers can reduce reliance on foreign imports, strengthen the local economy, and provide a more diverse range of healthy food options for the community. Embracing sustainable farming practices empowers Puerto Ricans to reclaim their food autonomy and break free from colonial legacies. Although the repeal of the Jones Act remains uncertain, Massa, Robles, and Sanz are actively creating a thriving, self-sufficient food ecosystem rooted in Puerto Rico’s agricultural heritage.
For Massa, sustainability is not just a buzzword but a matter of survival. He believes that cherishing and embracing what the land has to offer is vital not only for our well-being but also for the future generations of Puerto Ricans.
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