M&S Coteaux Varois en Provence, France 2022 (£17.50, 1.5l, Marks & Spencer)
The glass wine bottle, aside from its contents, is an exquisite object. It ages wine gracefully over years or even decades. However, it’s not always the most practical tool. One issue is its weight. While many producers have realized the environmental impact of heavy glass and are using lighter options, even a 300g 75cl bottle can be too much to carry in a picnic basket or backpack. It also poses a risk, especially for those prone to clumsiness. Thankfully, the quality of wine available in alternative packaging, like pouches, has improved. This means that a shareable and classic Provence rosé like M&S’s can now be easily and safely transported, even though it may not look as visually appealing in this format.
Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah, France NV (£3.49, 25cl, Waitrose)
Waitrose has made a commendable effort to disclose the weight of its packaging for wines, beers, and spirits during its press tastings. The differences in weight are eye-opening. For instance, the packaging of a 2.25 litre bag-in-box of Vibrant & Grassy Chilean White Wine 2022 (£14.95) weighs a mere 150g, while using the lightest glass bottles would result in packaging six times heavier for the same amount of wine. Similarly, a 25cl can of Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône weighs only 15g, whereas the 75cl bottle for the same producer’s Costières de Nîmes 2022 (£8.49, Waitrose) weighs 395g. The issue of weight goes beyond convenience; it significantly contributes to the carbon footprint of the wine industry. To truly embrace sustainability, the wine industry needs to shed unnecessary weight and reduce its environmental impact.
Croft Pink & Tonic, Portugal NV (£2.50, 25cl, Booths; Amazon; oxfordwine.co.uk)
The wine world’s acceptance of alternative packaging has brought a more relaxed and innovative approach to a traditionally conservative trade. In the past, the notion of putting wine in a can was seen as sacrilegious. However, times have changed, and even esteemed producers like the Fladgate Partnership, known for their fine ports, have embraced cans for products like Croft Pink & Tonic, a delightful blend of pink port and tonic with a subtle bittersweetness and pink grapefruit tang. This shift in packaging choices would have been unthinkable just a few years ago. It’s refreshing to see the industry open to new ideas and challenging its own traditions.
Follow David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach
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