At Dai Due in Austin, Texas, the restaurant offers a variety of delicious dishes featuring wild boar. Guests can enjoy wild boar summer sausage alongside their brunch entree, or savor the boar boudin in a Czech-Texan pastry called a klosbasnek. For dinner, the wild boar is served with a carrot puree and a savory chili bone broth, while at lunch, it tops a luxurious Italian sub along with Wagyu beef and nilgai antelope.
The restaurant takes pride in sourcing its wild game from the nearby Hill Country, ensuring that “almost everything comes from around here.” While wild boar may seem quintessentially Texan, it’s important to remember that these swine are actually native to Europe. They were brought to the Americas by Christopher Columbus on his voyage to Cuba in 1493, with the intention of using them as a food source. Over time, these pigs have multiplied, and their descendants now number around 6 million in 35 states. They wreak havoc on crops, forestry, and livestock, causing an estimated $2.5 billion in damages annually. Furthermore, they pose a risk of spreading diseases to both humans and domestic animals.
In response to this growing issue, some chefs, farmers, and meat purveyors, particularly in Texas and other southern regions known for their wild boar populations, are incorporating feral hogs into the food chain. By doing so, they are turning a nuisance species into a sustainable protein for human consumption. Chef Jesse Griffiths, co-owner of Dai Due and author of award-winning books on wild boar, believes it is a straightforward equation: these invasive hogs need to be removed, and consuming them is a solution to the problem.
The destructive nature of feral hogs is evident at Farmshare Austin, where extreme drought conditions led to mud pits and damaged crops caused by a sounder of feral hogs seeking food and relief from the scorching Texas summer. The hogs destroyed thousands of pounds of produce, causing significant losses for the non-profit organization that focuses on cultivating new farmers and increasing food access in underserved areas. Despite efforts by governmental agencies such as the USDA and state wildlife departments, containing the wild boar population has proven challenging.
Various factors have contributed to the proliferation of feral hogs, making them one of North America’s first invasive species. Interbreeding between domestic animals and Eurasian wild boars has resulted in a resilient population that is difficult to control. Due to their intelligence and agility, capturing them is a daunting task. However, many states now allow hunters to shoot them, and there is a commercial trapping industry aimed at reducing their numbers.
Companies like Broken Arrow Ranch in Texas and Shogun Farms in Florida are actively working to remove these invasive animals from the landscape. Broken Arrow partners with trappers who bring feral hogs directly to a USDA-approved slaughterhouse for processing and packaging. The company prefers medium-sized pigs, around 80 to 180 pounds, as they offer the unique flavor of wild boar without being too gamey. Shogun Farms takes a different approach, feeding and monitoring the pigs they trap for around six months to produce high-quality meat comparable to Wagyu pork.
Despite the efforts of these purveyors, bringing wild boar meat to market has proven challenging due to federal meat inspection guidelines. Unlike wild venison, which can be processed in the field, swine must meet USDA standards, making finding USDA-approved slaughter facilities a time-consuming process. However, there are now 15 federally inspected facilities across the United States that can handle feral swine.
While the availability of wild boar may still be limited, chefs across the country are taking note of its growing popularity. Broken Arrow’s products are highly sought after, and the increasing interest in wild boar has attracted representatives from the entire southeastern region to learn more about this sustainable solution. Though wild boar may remain a specialty item for now, its presence in the food industry is steadily increasing, providing a unique and flavorful option for adventurous diners.
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