Leith is undergoing a transformation. Bars are evolving into bistros, and barbershops are incorporating bars within them. Paul Stewart, the founder of Edinburgh Street Tours, describes the changes happening in Leith. He refers to the new tram station on top of Leith Walk and compares it to “tram-spotting” rather than the drug-fueled movie “Trainspotting” set in Leith. Stewart, who used to live on the streets of Leith, expresses his satisfaction with the developments taking place. In the 1980s, unemployment was rampant in this old port, with half of the jobless population being out of work for over a year. It is no coincidence that the Proclaimers, who hail from Leith, used the city as the backdrop for their song “Letter from America,” a scathing critique of Thatcherite Scotland.
I have come to explore Leith ahead of the launch of the new tramline on Wednesday. The tram network initially opened in 2014, connecting the city center to Edinburgh Airport, with the last stop at York Place. It has taken nearly a decade for the line to extend down Leith Walk, reaching Leith proper and eventually Newhaven on the waterfront. The new tramline covers a distance of just 2.91 miles and includes eight new stops. However, its arrival brings a sense of hope and optimism to the people of Leith.
The trams disappeared from Edinburgh in 1956, with the last service running on Leith Walk on November 16th of that year. Leith was always the outlier when it came to trams; horse-drawn trams reached Edinburgh in 1871, traveling down to Leith, and the city’s first electric trams were introduced by the innovative Leith Corporation Tramways in 1905. Symbolically, the old Shrubhill tram depot on Leith Walk, where the last service terminated 67 years ago, has now been transformed into the Engine Yard development, providing affordable housing.
“I’m proud that our motto in Leith is ‘persevere’. With the arrival of the trams, we can see the changes happening, but we are determined not to lose the essence of our community and the soul of Leith,” beams Stewart. Leith is renowned for its independent and cosmopolitan spirit. In 1920, the people of Leith voted overwhelmingly against merging with Edinburgh, but their wishes were ignored. The area also had one of the highest support rates for remaining in the European Union during the referendum.
At the top of Leith Walk, I discover a burst of new energy. Spry, a wine bar specializing in natural wines, has recently opened an artisan bakery below it. Next door, Laila, a cafe adorned with pink flowers, underwent a complete renovation in November 2022. The parallel street Easter Road, nicknamed “Feaster Road” by the locals, is now home to Foodstory, a sustainable cafe, Écosse Éclair, a stylish patisserie, Plant Bae, a vegan cafe, as well as the Edinburgh Honey Company and Polentoni, an authentic Italian deli. Ailidh Forlan, also known as food blogger Plate Expectations, tells me that Leith is transforming into a foodie haven with the arrival of the trams. As I indulge in the best nduja and gorgonzola focaccia this side of Bologna, I can’t help but agree.
In Easter Road’s trendy fashion boutique It Started in the North, owner Brett Rowden blends elements of mod, casual, and skinhead subcultures. He feels the winds of change blowing: “The trams have given small businesses the confidence to invest after a challenging few years.” Craft breweries are also flourishing in Leith. Alongside Pilot and its Leith Lager, Campervan and Newbarns have joined the scene. Taprooms and fruit beers now flow through streets that were once occupied by more than 80 whisky warehouses. However, old Leith is not being overshadowed by the new. I find reassurance in the fact that the Sicilian Pastry Shop, established since 1979, is still thriving. Here, you can enjoy three cakes for the price of one in the new boutique bakeries of Leith.
Returning to Leith Walk, I am reminded that Daniel Defoe described it as a “very handsome Gravel-walk” back in 1725. BBC Radio DJ Vic Galloway, a long-time resident of Leith, goes a step further and suggests that Leith Walk could become Edinburgh’s version of La Rambla. The widening of the pavement has created a bustling boulevard that leads down towards the sea. According to Galloway, Leith is now the place to go out in Edinburgh.
I join Galloway for lunch at Leith Depot, a cultural hub, restaurant, and gig space that was originally going to be converted into flats until the community intervened. Galloway is spinning records at a new monthly event called Vitamin C, but he is not the only one contributing to Leith’s vibrant music scene. Galloway remarks, “Leith is bursting with musical creativity.” Artists like Young Fathers, who reside in Leith, recorded their latest album in the area. Edinburgh’s Hamish Hawk also chose to record his new album at Leith’s Post Electric Studio, where up-and-coming band Redolent recently completed their debut album. Another talented musician to watch out for is multi-instrumentalist Callum Easter.
As we continue our stroll down Leith Walk, passing the second branch of the esteemed liquor store Cornelius, I inquire about the possibility of Leith losing its identity. Galloway responds, “I don’t think anyone wants Leith to change to the extent that local people can no longer afford to live here. Take Leith Depot, for example. You can enjoy a good pint and great food without breaking the bank. I hope Leith has learned from the mistakes of East Berlin and Montreal, which underwent rapid changes and lost their essence. Here, people have not been forced out. In my apartment building, there is a real mix of newcomers and lifelong Leith residents.”
Leaving Galloway behind, I follow the tram line and the noisy seagulls towards The Shore, an area named after the tram stop. The old harbor was once vibrant with Hanseatic traders, and traces of Flemish architecture can still be seen. The opening of the first Malmaison boutique hotel in 1994 was meant to kickstart Leith’s revitalization. Today, Heron, a casual fine dining establishment run by Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke, challenges the Michelin-starred Leith establishments Martin Wishart and Tom Kitchin. In fact, Heron earned its own Michelin star in April. From The Shore, I can see the new Port of Leith Distillery, the UK’s first vertically integrated distillery. Its sleek black tower overlooks the Forth, towering above the Royal Yacht Britannia, the former plaything of the royal family. Co-owner Paddy Fletcher remarks, “Britannia is more like a spaceship than a ship. It arrived in 1998, promising to contribute to Leith’s regeneration, but in reality, it attracts only tourists. We want to entice people to drink, dine, and use the tram to explore.” Judging by the success of their existing distillery, Lind & Lime gin, Leith is in capable and innovative hands.
My final destination, like Leith itself, stands at a crossroads. Leith Theatre has great potential. This splendid 1930s venue has survived bombings during World War II and even hosted AC/DC concerts in the 1970s. Today, it hosts limited-capacity concerts, but its CEO Lynn Morrison has grand aspirations: “Leith Theatre will become Edinburgh’s version of Barrowland.”
Leith Theatre, much like Leith as a whole, requires further investment as it steps into the future. The arduous construction of the tramline is complete, but the opportunities it opens up are just beginning to emerge. As a thick fog settles over the Forth, I recall Paul Stewart’s words at the top of Leith Walk: “The trams have played their part. Now, it’s up to Leith to embark on a journey that no one knows yet.”
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