My Expensive £30,000 Fishing Expedition Yielded No Success

The sky bursts into flames as a majestic dragon soars above my tent, its presence reverberating through the valley. The Bhutanese call their Himalayan dwelling “Druk Yul” or “land of the thunder dragon,” which had seemed exaggerated to me. But now, caught between towering mountains, the storm feels immense, furious, and undeniably alive.

Beside my cot lies a collection of fly-fishing rods. In an effort to support conservation, the Bhutanese government recently lifted the ban on fishing for golden mahseer, a creature as rare and mythical as a dragon. There are anglers who spare no expense to pursue their hobby, especially those who prefer using fly rods, a technique reminiscent of a gymnast’s flowing ribbon. This creates an entire ecosystem, generating jobs and preserving species.

However, the golden mahseer holds a special place in Bhutanese culture as one of Buddhism’s eight symbols of good luck. Traditionally protected by the gods, this fish is considered sacred. As the rain begins to beat relentlessly against the canvas of my tent, I can’t help but worry if the government has crossed the deities’ protection.

A couple of days ago, I was greeted by Singhey Guamtsho, a Bhutanese aristocrat, at the luxurious Six Senses hotel situated high above Thimphu, the capital city. This tranquil haven provided a soothing respite before embarking on my adventure. From this elevated vantage point, 8,000 feet in the air, I indulged in candied fruit while marveling at the breathtaking vistas of the last standing Himalayan kingdom. Bhutan is renowned for prioritizing happiness over Gross Domestic Product, and its commitment to preserving its pristine environment is supported by a daily tax on visitors, known as the sustainable development fee.

Despite these positive ideals, a bleak shadow has fallen over Bhutan. Ill-conceived hydro projects are wreaking havoc on the country’s most beautiful valleys, placing additional strain on an already financially unstable situation due to allegedly ill-advised cryptocurrency deals. The sustainable development fee has recently been increased from $65 to $200 per day, causing dismay among guides who cater to trekkers, birdwatchers, and visitors on extended stays. However, the government has attempted to rectify the situation by offering discounted rates for longer durations.

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