Alfio Puglisi, one of our hosts, describes the cannoli from a pasticceria in Taormina as the best in all of Sicily. These heavenly pastries are filled with sweetened ricotta and candied orange peel, representing the pinnacle of Sicilian treats that have been perfected over a thousand years. Sicily’s cuisine is diverse and ancient, influenced by various cultures that have occupied the island throughout history.
Situated between Europe and North Africa, Sicily’s regional ingredients and recipes reflect the Greek, Roman, Arab, and Norman cultures that have left their mark. Known as “God’s kitchen,” Sicily benefits from fertile volcanic soil and a lush landscape, with Mount Etna being particularly remarkable. We are embarking on a three-day culinary adventure called “Etna Wild Food,” organized by Palazzo Previtera and Emotional Sicily. This experience includes tastings of Etna wines, meals with Sicilian chefs, and even cooking secrets shared by London-based chef Ben Tish.
Upon our arrival at Catania airport, we are greeted by Alfio, the friendly owner of Palazzo Previtera. We embark on a scenic drive to Linguaglossa, a town nestled at the foot of Etna’s northern slopes. Palazzo Previtera, which has been in Alfio’s family since 1649, has undergone a painstaking decade-long restoration to transform it into a unique bed and breakfast. The palazzo is like a museum, showcasing the evolution of Sicilian interior design with its ornate fabrics, artifacts, and curiosities.
The palazzo boasts four guest bedrooms, two cottages in the gardens, and an exhibition space on the lower floor. Outside, the grounds are filled with treasures, including beautiful wisteria, rare English roses, and a charming family of tabby cats. The fertile land surrounding the palazzo is abundant with grapevines, olive trees, and wild fennel. The weekend is not only a feast for our taste buds, but also an opportunity to witness Sicily’s future.
At Trattoria Linguaglossa, a local restaurant with an extensive selection of Etna wines, we indulge in pane fritto, artichokes wrapped in lardo, and a plate of pasta with slow-cooked ragù. This regional twist on a classic dish showcases the influence of Norman conquerors. We end our meal with sciauni, a delicious fried ravioli filled with sweetened ricotta. The short walk back to Palazzo Previtera allows us to savor the flavors.
The following day, we journey to Guardiola, a prized vineyard parcel to the north of Etna. The rugged and rocky terrain resulting from past volcanic eruptions makes it one of the strangest wine regions in the world. The vineyards, nestled between peaks of black, cratered rock, require meticulous hand-tending due to the inaccessibility of machinery. Despite the challenges, winemakers like Alberto Cusumano of Alta Mora winery produce exceptional wines using resilient native grape varieties, such as Nerello Mascalese for reds and Carricante for whites.
In the village of Randazzo, renowned pastry chef Giovanna Musumeci introduces us to the origins of granita, a culinary obsession on the island. This sweet treat dates back to the Middle Ages when Sicilians flavored snow from Mount Etna with fruit, nuts, and sugar. Giovanna puts a creative spin on her granitas, experimenting with savory flavors like aubergine, ricotta, and tomato. We refresh our palates with mandarin granita before continuing our journey through the Alcantara valley.
Amongst peach groves and towering wildflowers, we discover Tenuta Rustica, an olive oil-producing estate that has been in the Fisauli family since the 16th century. Lorenzo and Margherita Fisauli have recently returned to Sicily and are reviving the estate’s traditions. We sample their extra virgin olive oil, homemade bread, and pecorino cheese, alongside their latest venture into winemaking. Their low-intervention rosé complements the modern and minimalist ambiance of chef Alberto Angiolucci’s restaurant, where he applies a nose-to-tail approach to fish.
Our weekend in Sicily proves to be a high-intensity interval of culinary pleasures, showcasing the island’s rich history and innovative future.
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