Excitement runs high from the very beginning. A clear and definitive path leads through ankle-high heather across a landscape flanked on either side by the imposing Red and Black Cuillin mountain ranges. Even partially hidden in the mist on this cloudy morning, these mountain ranges are, in my opinion, the most exquisite in all of Britain. But beyond them, almost emerging into the light between the two, lies Sgùrr na Strì, a more modest 494-meter rock formation that threatens to overshadow the Cuillin mountains. Many claim that the view from its summit is the most spectacular in all of Scotland. The ever-shifting shadows from the hilltop’s panorama, stretching across the Black Cuillin to Loch Coruisk, the Small Isles, and the Sea of the Hebrides, give the impression that the landscape is in constant motion.
I embark on the lengthy hike to Sgùrr na Strì from the deserted trailhead at Sligachan Old Bridge car park in the heart of Skye, where this exhilarating adventure begins and ends. Another popular option is a 20-minute rib boat crossing (£18, booking essential) from Elgol to Loch Coruisk, followed by a one-way, seven-mile hike. However, I have chosen the longer, free round trip option.
Although no longer in use, the famous Sligachan Old Bridge, which has been widely photographed, has played a significant role in making Skye an Instagram sensation in recent years. Today, the surroundings of the bridge are brimming with the joys of the season. The Sligachan River flows vigorously, the heather has transitioned from amethyst to a lighter violet, and the annoying midges have disappeared. The sound of a bellowing stag echoes towards me – later, I catch a glimpse of one nervously twitching far below the rugged Sgùrr nan Gillean, a mountain that often prompts visitors to reach for their cameras.
Surprisingly, despite being a popular island destination, there are few people around, allowing the landscape to retain its wildness that originally nurtured two of Britain’s most esteemed mountaineers. In the late 19th century, John MacKenzie, a crofter born on Skye, became Britain’s first professional mountain guide. He was one of the first individuals to acknowledge the opportunities presented by these hills. Another frequent visitor to Skye, Professor John Norman Collie, established a friendship with MacKenzie in 1886, leading them to complete ten of the initial ascents of the largely unmapped Cuillin mountains. Familiarity with this history helps to unlock deeper meanings during the hike.
A memorial sculpture dedicated to these pioneering mountaineers poignantly marks the beginning of the Sgùrr na Strì trail. MacKenzie and Collie are buried next to each other in Struan’s Bracadale Free Church graveyard on Skye’s west coast. Inseparable in life, they are now inseparable in death.
Perhaps more significant than these symbols, however, is the legacy they left behind. What the early mountaineers discovered in Skye’s hills was a profound sense of purpose. The mountains ceased to appear as daunting barriers to travel and instead became places that could provide pure and simple joy. Their influence breathed life into the country’s most challenging peaks. Previously untouched summits were now traversed and climbed. Thus began the revered pursuit of Munro bagging, which involves ticking off all 282 of Scotland’s Munros – mountain peaks that reach at least 914 meters (3,000 feet) in elevation.
As I venture deeper into the peatlands of Glen Sligachan, the footpath I follow offers glimpses of many of the most awe-inspiring Munros. To my left is Blà Bheinn, while to my right, I see Sgùrr Dubh Mòr, Sgùrr Alasdair, and the towering Inaccessible Pinnacle. Though well-marked paths guide the way, it is essential to have a map and a topographic GPS app on hand for navigating these higher ridges.
Continuing along the watershed of the glen, which is managed by the John Muir Trust, I dodge bogs as the path becomes increasingly soggy. Finally, at a fork in the trail marked by a large cairn, I feel a sudden urge to veer left towards the silver sands of Loch Scavaig, where wild campers pitch their tents along the shore. But glancing towards my right, I catch sight of the switchback ascent up the Druim Hain, leading to my final destination. Deep down, I know I am on the right path, which will position me perfectly on the gently sloping ridge.
Forty minutes later, after passing a small lochan and ascending higher onto the crest, Sgùrr na Strì and the jagged Black Cuillin come into sharp focus.
At this point, and on many other walks throughout the Hebrides, the path gives way to rocky outcrops that make navigation a challenge as I carefully navigate through haphazard boulders along a broad southwest ridge to reach the summit. I choose the most direct route up the burn, but instantly regret my decision as my trail running shoes get wet. However, it is a small price to pay, as I draw closer to my destination and the sun bursts through the clouds.
Finally, I arrive at the most breathtaking view in the Highlands, marked by a cairn that appears as if it could be swept away by the sea at any moment. This is where I urge you to linger for as long as the weather permits. While the scenery is awe-inspiring, the precipitous view holds significance beyond its geographical or geological features. It is a place to pay homage to where the story of British mountaineering began.
Before sunset, as the wind stirs, I turn to make the return journey through Glen Sligachan. Seumas’ Bar awaits me behind the Sligachan Hotel, and for about two hours, the white dot of the inn remains fixed in my line of sight. With a blister now forming on my heel, I finally reach the doors of the bar. Inside, hikers gather to quench their thirst and share their experiences after long days in the hills, much like MacKenzie and Collie used to do, recounting their own personal tales of passion and love for Skye’s mountains.
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