The impact of Succession on the fashion world is undeniable, as the show’s stars have managed to make their presence felt at Milan Fashion Week without even sitting in the front row. The days of excess are over, and elegance has taken center stage as designers embrace the concept of “quiet luxury” that has gained popularity thanks to the Roy family.
At Prada, the influential brand that sets the tone for upcoming fashion trends, co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons used the simple white shirt to explore the idea of “reconsidering the basics”. Simons explained that they aimed for a refined silhouette inspired by 1940s menswear and the idealization of the male body.
Valentino’s designer Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a collection of relaxed separates that captured the essence of masculinity in the present moment. Dolce & Gabbana also moved away from their signature distressed denim and glitzy suits, opting instead for tailored garments and a focus on well-cut pieces.
Even the celebrity-filled front rows of Milan Fashion Week appeared unusually quiet, highlighting the shift towards a more low-key mood. Brands have moved away from logo-centric designs and high-profile collaborations and have found new ways to make subtle sophistication stand out. Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns, noted that this trend remains strong but has evolved to include more intricate detailing on garments and silhouettes.
Italian brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, Tod’s, Giorgio Armani, and Brioni embraced the return of understated luxury by stepping away from streetwear influences. Norbert Stumpfl, creative director at Brioni, highlighted the meticulous craftsmanship behind their blazers, which can take months to create just the fabric alone.
Despite its name, quiet luxury is meant to make a statement. These are still high-end garments that often cost more than the average person’s monthly salary, and they need to reflect that value. Lucie Greene, trend forecaster and founder of consultancy Light Years, describes it as “extreme material integrity” achieved through the expertise of true artisans and a price point that surpasses mainstream luxury.
The rise of quiet fashion can also be attributed to the consolidation of wealth, especially during the pandemic, where a significant amount of money has accumulated at the top. Greene explains that ultra-high net worth individuals now seek to differentiate themselves by embracing subtlety, discretion, and institutional wealth codes. This allows brands to offer exclusive and discreet ways of communicating wealth while avoiding unwanted attention.
In a society marked by extreme inequality, overt displays of wealth have become distasteful and contentious. This shift in values has created an opportunity for brands to cater to the desire for privacy and exclusivity. As fashion reflects the times, the rise of quiet luxury signifies a departure from showy logos and a return to timeless sophistication.
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