Luxury vs. Squalor in Rome: An Engaging Exploration

In a memorable evening in June, guests at Palazzo Vilòn’s magnificent dining room were treated to a Baroque-themed dinner. Painted cherubs adorned centuries-old mirrors, while exquisite marble floors and a lavish ceiling adorned with frescoes created a truly immersive experience. The interior designer toasted to the new hotel, hailing it as a haven of privacy and one-of-a-kind encounters. The operatic singing and Aqua Mirabilis-spiced wine contributed to an eerie, password-centric ambience reminiscent of Fidelio.

Palazzo Vilòn, a super-deluxe annex to its prestigious counterpart Hotel Vilòn, overlooks a private garden and occupies a prominent position in the harpsichord-shaped Palazzo Borghese. With its private disco club, swimming pool, and luxurious living rooms named after Roman deities, it’s a retreat fit for Arab sheikhs, Harry and Meghan, and Hollywood royalty. However, when actors Daniel Craig and Rachel Weisz attempted to stay for an extended visit, they found the price tag too steep for even Agent 007.

The average cost of staying at Palazzo Vilon is a whopping €25,000, or nearly $27,000, per night. Not far away, the recently unveiled Bulgari Hotel Roma on Via di Ripetta boasts premier suites that overlook the Mausoleum of Augustus for a staggering €38,000, roughly $41,000, per night.

Rome, a city characterized by its layered history and contradictions, has always been a melting pot of extremes. Throughout the centuries, it has hosted emperors and slaves, nobles and thieves, do-nothings and hardworking individuals. However, the city’s current state of decay, referred to as “degrado” by the locals, adds a surreal dimension to its newest wave of exorbitant hotel offerings.

In spring, the city’s sidewalks become engulfed by unruly vegetation, while the summer heat intensifies the stench of overflowing garbage bins. Throughout the year, fluorescent orange construction fencing obscures the cityscape. During the grand hotel openings in June, a discarded industrial refrigerator, illegally dumped on the street, epitomized the city’s state of disarray. Adding to the chaos is the stalled traffic caused by the construction of a subway line, which many locals doubt will ever be operational.

This juxtaposition of extravagant hotels and urban decay has left many Romans perplexed and questioning the sanity of investors. Are they wearing rose-tinted glasses? Have they lost touch with reality? Rome’s mayor, Roberto Gualtieri, defends these hoteliers, citing the city’s improved restaurant scene, the restoration of museums, and future developments. Although post-pandemic tourism has made Rome a desirable destination, the influx of Airbnb rentals poses a threat to the city’s authenticity.

Mayor Gualtieri envisions a modern, functioning city facilitated by European Union recovery funds, investments for the upcoming Jubilee in 2025, and his own urban renewal policies. These policies include building a garbage incinerator, road repairs, contract revisions for proper maintenance, and extending the subway line. The luxury hotels are seen as contributors to a new Roman renaissance.

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, declares that Rome was in dire need of the kind of hospitality found in cities like Paris. He believes that the influx of luxury accommodations will reposition Rome as a city of the future rather than just an open-air museum of the past. The luxury hotel rush suggests that hoteliers see Rome as a profitable venture, with favorable conditions despite the city’s garbage and traffic issues and the jaded attitude of its residents.

Until recently, local interests had hindered the entry of large luxury hotel chains into Rome. However, a rule established in 2008 prevented the conversion of medieval or Renaissance palaces into hotels hosting more than 60 people. This rule inadvertently kept big luxury chains at bay. Nevertheless, the city has made concessions to attract high-end hotels that cater to wealthier individuals. Some new hotels have set up shop near the Via Veneto in buildings not subject to the 2008 rule. Bulgari, for example, occupies a converted Fascist-era government building in the old city center.

While the luxury wave may signify a promising future for Rome, some designers and architects remain skeptical. They wonder if these new hotels can truly transform an ancient city where change has historically been met with skepticism and resistance. Nevertheless, former mayors such as Walter Veltroni believe that change is possible and that Romans need tangible proof before fully embracing it. Mayor Gualtieri acknowledges the frustrations of Romans but vows to break the cycle of inefficiency and lack of public services.

Five-star luxury hotels that most Romans will never experience could be the catalyst for change that the city needs. There is hope that these hotels will help redefine Rome, not merely as a relic of the past, but as a dynamic city with a promising future.

Reference

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