In Britain, our gardening experience has been heavenly this past month. The rainfall has made the soil easy to work with, and the combination of broken sunlight and shade has made our gardens look their best. While weeds have been more abundant compared to last year, the conditions have been perfect for removing them with a hoe, eliminating several years’ worth of seeds in one go.
Gardens in other parts of the world have been scorching in the hot weather. If you happen to be vacationing in the Mediterranean this summer, take some time to appreciate the local planting instead of longing for the familiar green and pleasant landscapes of Britain. Mediterranean gardening is an art form in its own right, with its own unique challenges and rewards. It thrives with an abundance of flowers long before British borders and bedding-out season. Unlike Britain, it cannot rely on summer rain for irrigation. It’s worth studying and understanding, especially as we face changing climates that may require us to adapt our gardening practices.
A century ago, second-home owners who enjoyed Mediterranean gardening did so at a different time of year. They didn’t travel in August hoping to catch glimpses of gardens between sunbathing sessions on the beach. Instead, they went to their Riviera homes in November and stayed until April or early May, immersing themselves in the abundance of spring flowers. If Edwardians did venture back to the Mediterranean in high summer, they shielded themselves with face cream and preferred walking in the Alps.
I recently had the opportunity to explore two separate sites near Athens that exemplify the two sides of Mediterranean gardening: the engagement of expatriates and the involvement of those who have always lived in such climates. One of these sites is the Mediterranean Garden Society’s garden at Sparoza. Located in Paiania, on the outskirts of Athens, this garden is maintained by the society and showcases plants from both the Mediterranean region and other areas with similar climates. It serves as a valuable resource for gardeners in Mediterranean climate zones around the world. Subscribers to the society enjoy access to a quarterly magazine, participation in a yearly seed exchange, and opportunities to join garden tours alongside fellow enthusiasts.
The style and form of the Sparoza garden owe much to the pioneering work of two remarkable women. Mary Jaqueline Tyrwhitt was the first to undertake Mediterranean planting on the site in the mid-1960s. She was followed by Sally Razelou, who served as the custodian of Sparoza for 30 years, 20 of which were under the Mediterranean Garden Society’s stewardship. Since Razelou’s passing in 2021, Lucie Willan has taken on the role of head gardener, bringing renewed energy and vision to the garden. Willan’s training includes working as a member of the gardening team at Sissinghurst, and the garden has already attracted attention from gardening personality Monty Don, who filmed a TV segment there.
To gain a sense of the challenges and potential of Mediterranean gardening, I highly recommend watching a video hosted by Lucie Willan herself. Titled “Lucinda Willan, A Year at Sparoza,” the video on YouTube offers a delightful and informal 20-minute tour of the garden throughout the seasons. It showcases the stunning bee orchids, beautiful crocuses, and the abundance of flowering thyme that blankets the hillside. The video captures the ever-changing and diverse beauty of a Mediterranean garden.
Another noteworthy site near Athens is Philodassiki, a park and replanting project located on the slopes of Mount Hymettus. This project began in the mid-1960s and focuses on showcasing native Greek plants and preserving the country’s biodiversity. The gardens at Philodassiki serve as a testament to ecologically conscious planting and management, despite the challenging conditions and maintenance requirements. The project aims to protect Greece’s native flora from being overshadowed by mass-produced bedding plants, often from overseas.
Famous artist and landscaper Dimitris Pikionis was responsible for planting native Greek trees and shrubs on the main approach to the Acropolis hill and its temples in the 1950s. Philodassiki further expanded on this idea and planted millions of trees on the deforested slopes of Mount Hymettus. This ambitious endeavor included the Kaisariani monastery-church and the creation of a nursery to cultivate plants suitable for Mediterranean conditions. The gardens at Philodassiki now serve as a living database of Greece’s rich plant life, featuring a wide range of native species, including the rare and unique.
Sophia Pilavachi, the passionate and knowledgeable individual in charge of Philodassiki, expressed her disdain for invasive weeds and the importance of preserving native plants. Alongside forest scientist Nikolaos Pangas, Pilavachi tends to the vast collection of flora, showcasing its beauty and educating visitors about its ecological significance. The gardens offer breathtaking green vistas, with towering Aleppo pines, cedars, and Ceratonia trees. Pilavachi has also created a stepped and terraced flower garden, demonstrating how vibrant and colorful a Greek garden can be with the right choice of plants.
From my experiences at Sparoza and Philodassiki, I draw two conclusions. First, individual Greeks have long embraced the challenge of thoughtful gardening in Mediterranean climates. Second, it may be time for us to reconsider our ingrained garden calendar and embrace the opportunities that come with Mediterranean gardening. Let’s let go of the notion that dahlias are essential and instead explore the incredible range of plants that thrive in these unique conditions.
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