Experiencing various culinary delights lately has revealed a common ingredient – breadcrumbs. These versatile little crumbs have made their way into pasta dough, chicken coating, anchovies, olives, and even cake mixtures. Breadcrumbs truly are the unsung heroes of the kitchen, tirelessly transforming dishes and adding that extra touch of flavor and texture. They are like the Kevin Bacon of ingredients, popping up everywhere and enhancing every bite.
And it’s not just a recent discovery. In a small poll I conducted with a fellow food enthusiast, we concluded that after olive oil and salt, breadcrumbs are the hardest-working ingredient in our kitchens. They are also true shapeshifters, ranging from soft rags to the finest grit, depending on the age and type of bread used. These variations in crumb texture significantly impact the outcome of dishes, such as the difference between soft, white crumbs and fine sandy ones when frying chicken. Personal preferences also come into play, like using soft, pulsed crumbs resembling fragments of chips and batter for sardine pasta, or opting for finely ground, toasted crumbs from dry bread and olive oil.
Each time I handle breadcrumbs, I’m reminded of their ability to transform from soft to hard, like a rock, if left for too long. To achieve the desired texture, it’s best to lightly toast hard bread to make it brittle before blending. I make sure to keep both soft and very dry breadcrumbs in the freezer, although the latter requires extra precaution against dampness and mold.
For this week’s recipe, inspired by a dish from the renowned Stano trattoria in Matera, any type of breadcrumb, ranging from soft to dry, can be used. The ideal cooking vessel is a pan or dish that can be used both on the stovetop and in the oven. Alternatively, a large frying pan and an oven dish can be used. Below is the recipe for Lamb with potato, tomato, and breadcrumbs, which strikes a perfect balance between roasted and braised, with a tender interior and a crispy topping.
Lamb with Potato, Tomato, and Breadcrumbs
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- Olive oil
- 1kg lamb – small chops, boneless leg, or neck, all chopped into chunks
- Salt
- 2 glasses white wine
- 1 large onion, peeled and sliced
- 2 large potatoes (about 400g), peeled and diced
- 3 tomatoes, peeled and crushed
- Dried oregano
- 100g coarse, dry breadcrumbs
- 1 tbsp grated pecorino
Instructions:
- Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan)/350°F/gas 4.
- In a large ovenproof pan, heat a little olive oil. Brown the lamb chunks on all sides in batches, transferring them to a plate once browned.
- Return the browned lamb to the pan and add salt. Increase the heat and pour in one glass of white wine. Allow it to sizzle for a minute or two. If using a frying pan, transfer the lamb and cooking juices to an oven dish.
- Scatter the sliced onion, diced potatoes, and crushed tomatoes over the lamb. Season with a pinch of salt and a generous pinch of dried oregano. Mix well and pour in the remaining glass of white wine or water.
- Loosely cover the pan with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 30 minutes. Add more liquid if the mixture appears dry.
- In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, grated pecorino, and a tablespoon of olive oil. During the last 10 minutes of cooking, stir the pan and sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top. Return the pan to the oven (preferably with the grill on) for a final crisp.
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