Rum is a spirit that demands patience, yet it has undergone significant transformation in the past decade. It is now produced in over 50 countries, from Cuba and Japan to Guatemala and Scotland, using various methods. This evolution has propelled the “premium and above” category to grow by 26 percent in volume from 2020 to 2021, according to the International Wine and Spirits Research (IWSR). Gone are the days when rum was solely associated with casual party consumption; it is now being recognized as a sophisticated sipping spirit akin to whisky.
The Caribbean, the birthplace of rum, has played a crucial role in driving its upward trajectory. Distillers in this region have made efforts to highlight the artistry and regional diversity of rum-making. Foursquare Rum in Barbados, for instance, has spearheaded campaigns for stricter regulations and appellation systems. Their Exceptional Cask Selection, a collection of limited-edition aged rums, embodies the sophistication and complexity more commonly associated with whisky. These rums are undiluted, single cask, non-chill-filtered, unsweetened, and sometimes vintage, representing the epitome of rum’s cerebral nature. Foursquare’s latest release, the Foursquare Touchstone (£90), is a harmonious blend of 14-year-old rums aged in American oak and finished in cognac casks, fusing classic Bajan spiciness with French refinement.
Appleton Estate, Jamaica’s oldest rum producer, boasts an extensive rum archive and has recently delved into crafting exquisite sipping spirits. The Appleton Estate 15yo Black River Cask (£66.94) envelops the distillery’s signature orange-zest notes in a luscious combination of tiramisu, chocolate, and prune flavors. Meanwhile, the deeper mahogany Appleton Estate 21yo (£150) showcases a maturation process that results in flavors reminiscent of thick-cut marmalade, followed by delightful hints of sweet coffee, soft leather, spices, and almond cake.
On the north coast of Jamaica lies the 200-year-old Hampden estate, renowned for utilizing traditional rum-making techniques. One such technique involves incorporating “muck” and “dunder” – fermented organic matter and spent yeast – during fermentation to infuse the rums with a distinct tropical funk and pungency. These rums may have an acquired taste, with flavor profiles encompassing papaya, sour apple, black banana, fermented pineapple, and even blue cheese. However, they are highly valued by connoisseurs for their distinctive character and authenticity.
Grenada’s Renegade distillery is pushing the boundaries by exploring whether rum can truly capture the essence of its place of origin. Founded by whisky entrepreneur Mark Reynier, Renegade takes inspiration from Scotch whisky and winemaking. The distillery cultivates various sugar cane varieties across different plots on the island and distills each plot individually, resulting in a collection of terroir-driven, single-variety, vintage distillates. To preserve transparency, the rums are distilled from fresh sugar-cane juice instead of molasses. Each release is labeled with a code that offers meticulous details about its production. From the loamy clay of Mango Lan’ to the arid slopes of Goat Hill, each rum possesses a distinct identity and aromatics that truly resonate.
The Mai Tai, often associated with Tiki kitsch, has a rich history as a simple drink that emphasizes the qualities of rum. Trader Vic’s original recipe, created in 1944, showcased the Wray and Nephew 17-year-old rum, known for its golden color, medium body, and distinctive Jamaican flavor. Although the rum was discontinued in 1981, it has been resurrected by Appleton Estate in limited quantities. Appleton’s master blender, Joy Spence, describes the recreation as a challenging endeavor resulting in a profile that distinguishes it from their other rums. The question now is whether one dares to mix such a rare and exquisite rum.
Renegade recently introduced its first pair of lightly aged rums called Études. Études: Pearls, made from Yellow Lady cane grown in mangrove and water meadow surroundings, exhibits refreshing cane notes with a hint of salinity. Its counterpart, New Bacolet, from the sun-soaked hills, offers flavors of dried fruit and sweet spice. Both of these rums are available for purchase at affordable prices.
Another hidden gem in the rum world is Clairin from Haiti. This artisanal label bottles sugar-cane-juice spirits produced by over 500 micro-distilleries in the country. These unaged and undiluted spirits resemble eaux-de-vie, showcasing flavors ranging from rustic spiciness to delicate citrus and grassiness. The herbal Clairin Vaval 2020 is a standout choice.
While top-quality rums still maintain relatively affordable prices compared to whisky, there is a growing interest among investors. Dawn Davies, head buyer at The Whisky Exchange, notes the increasing appetite for investible rums, with many of these limited releases selling out instantly. While the market is currently limited to a few distilleries, the number of investment-grade rums continues to expand. So, if you haven’t begun exploring the world of Caribbean sipping rums, now is the time to embark on this exciting journey.
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