Dermatologists who are active on the skin care side of TikTok are often raving about the benefits of vitamin C, recommending that users incorporate this ingredient into their morning routines. However, the price points for vitamin C serums vary greatly. Why is ReVive’s serum priced at $300, while The Ordinary’s can be found for under $8? Is this pricing difference simply due to fancy marketing, or does a higher-cost serum indicate a better product? To answer these questions, we interviewed board-certified dermatologists Dr. Angela Casey and Dr. Jeffrey Hsu, as well as cosmetic chemist Ginger King, to gain insights into the differences between high-priced and low-priced vitamin C serums, and whether it’s worth it for consumers to invest or save on this skin care product.
The Benefits of Vitamin C in Skin Care
With influencers constantly promoting products that promise miraculous results, it’s easy to become skeptical and question the necessity of certain ingredients. However, dermatologists emphasize that vitamin C should not be overlooked.
“Vitamin C is a topical antioxidant,” says Dr. Casey, a dermatologist based in Ohio. “It has anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, helps in shedding dull and dry skin cells, and promotes a brighter appearance by increasing epidermal turnover. It also stimulates collagen synthesis, making the skin stronger and more supple. Additionally, it works alongside sunscreen to protect skin cells from oxidative stress.”
Given the multitude of benefits that vitamin C offers for the skin, including anti-aging, brightening, and collagen production, it’s no wonder that this ingredient is highly regarded by dermatologists. Dr. Casey advises individuals to think of vitamin C as an essential step in preparing the skin to face the challenges it encounters throughout the day, such as pollution, inflammation, and UV damage. By providing an extra layer of protection from environmental irritants, topical vitamin C ensures that the skin is well-equipped to handle these stressors.
Why Do Some Vitamin C Serums Cost More Than Others?
As is the case with any product, several factors contribute to the varying price points of different vitamin C serums.
Concentration and Quality Control
“The quality and concentration of vitamin C used in the formulation can significantly impact the price,” explains Dr. Hsu, a dermatologist from Illinois.
As the concentration of vitamin C in a serum increases, so does the price. However, it’s important to note that more doesn’t always mean better when it comes to this ingredient. Consumers should ensure that their serum contains an adequate amount of vitamin C to be effective.
“Look for vitamin C concentrations between 10-20%,” advises Dr. Casey. “Concentrations above 20% don’t provide significant additional benefits and can cause more irritation, especially for individuals with dry or sensitive skin. Starting with a lower concentration, around 10%, is recommended for such individuals.”
One major downside of pure ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C, is its tendency to expire quickly. However, there are various vitamin C derivatives available that are more stable than pure ascorbic acid. While these derivatives offer a longer shelf life, they come with a higher price tag. Examples of stable vitamin C derivatives include tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 3-o-ethyl-ascorbic acid.
According to cosmetic chemist Ginger King, vitamin C in its pure state should be a clear liquid. If the serum turns orange or brown, it’s a sign that the vitamin C has oxidized and lost some of its efficacy. Additionally, King notes that pure ascorbic acid is only stable when in a liposome form, whereas other derivatives are more stable but also more expensive.
In the long run, investing a bit more in a serum from a company that emphasizes quality control may be beneficial. Quality manufacturing processes, rigorous standards, and the use of premium packaging materials can drive up the cost of a product.
Additional Ingredients and Patents
“To stabilize vitamin C, it’s often combined with complementary ingredients like vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid, and glutathione,” explains Dr. Casey. “These ingredients help maintain the potency and efficacy of vitamin C.”
While these additional ingredients can prolong the shelf life of a product, they can also contribute to its higher price. SkinCeuticals’ vitamin C serum, priced at $180, utilizes a patented blend of vitamins C and E, and ferulic acid to enhance its efficacy. Patents for specific formulations can lead to higher prices, as rival companies are unable to replicate the product.
Although it may be tempting to try mixing various skin care products to create a dupe for SkinCeuticals’ serum, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. King explains that the vitamin E and ferulic acid in SkinCeuticals’ serum serve as antioxidants to protect the vitamin C, rather than providing additional skin benefits as seen with combining creams and lotions.
Packaging and Marketing
Sometimes, the cost of packaging and marketing drives up the price of a particular serum. Retail brands may apply a higher markup based on their brand name, regardless of the actual formulation or ingredients. Some well-established brands invest heavily in marketing and secure prime product placements in big box stores, which is reflected in the higher pricing.
However, the packaging of vitamin C serums isn’t just for show; it plays a crucial role in the product’s efficacy and shelf life. Dr. Casey emphasizes the importance of using airtight and opaque containers or those made of dark glass to protect vitamin C from oxidation caused by air and light. Storing vitamin C serums in a dark, cool place with a securely closed top is also key in maintaining the product’s effectiveness.
Is it Worth Paying More for a Higher-Priced Serum?
Considering the use of more expensive ingredients, packaging, and formulations to create serums with extended shelf lives, one might wonder if it’s better to invest in a pricier vitamin C serum. However, Dr. Hsu suggests that it’s not solely about the price.
“It is highly recommended to opt for a traditional medical-grade vitamin C product, as these formulations have extensive scientific data and clinical studies supporting their efficacy,” says Dr. Hsu. Medical-grade skin care products are only available through dermatologists or medical aestheticians.
Instead of relying solely on price, user ratings, or influencer recommendations, consumers should rely on cold data to make an informed decision. Dr. Casey highlights the importance of clinical studies that objectively assess the effectiveness of a vitamin C serum. Clinical evidence is the most reliable way to compare different serums on the market.
However, not all data and studies are created equal. Dr. Hsu advises consumers to consider factors such as study size, measurement methods, and whether the data has undergone peer review. A thorough analysis is necessary to ensure the validity and accuracy of the data before drawing conclusions about a product’s efficacy.
How Can I Tell if My Vitamin C Serum is Working?
Understanding the efficacy of a product can be challenging, especially when reading through clinical studies. However, Dr. Hsu suggests considering user reviews and the reputation of the brand. Additionally, monitoring changes in your skin, such as improved brightness, reduced discoloration, and increased collagen production, can indicate that the serum is effective.
In conclusion, vitamin C offers numerous benefits for the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skin care products. The price disparity between vitamin C serums can be attributed to factors such as concentration, quality control, additional ingredients, patents, packaging, and marketing. While a higher price doesn’t necessarily guarantee a better serum, consumers should prioritize products backed by scientific data and clinical studies. Monitoring changes in the skin and seeking professional advice from dermatologists or medical aestheticians can also help determine the effectiveness of a vitamin C serum.
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