In his captivating memoir, “It Had to Be Tough,” veteran James Dunning provides a vivid account of new recruits arriving at a Scottish Highlands boot camp for UK Commando training during World War II. The recruits would disembark from the train, rain or shine, and immediately receive orders to put their kit bags on the truck and assemble on the road for training. There was no easy ride to Achnacarry, the training would begin right there and then.
Eighty years later, the first group of customers for Highland Survival Adventure (HSA) arrived at the same station, Spean Bridge, in a more leisurely manner. Even though they were also scheduled for training at Achnacarry, it was slated for the next day. Furthermore, the customers were too engrossed in enjoying a meal of Rannoch Moor venison loin paired with a 2016 Yohan Lardy Moulin-à-Vent Les Michelons to leave the dining car. They were on the Royal Scotsman, a luxury hotel on wheels with spa facilities, wood paneling, and an abundance of cutlery. The food was impeccable, the alcohol flowed freely, and since the passengers were still getting acquainted with each other after embarking only seven hours prior in Edinburgh, it felt like a three-day house party.
“For formal dinners,” the website advised, “men are encouraged to wear a dark suit and tie, tuxedo, or traditional Scottish kilt.” This shouldn’t come as a surprise considering that the Royal Scotsman has been in operation for nearly four decades and has had ample time to perfect its offerings. However, the introduction of HSA marks a new chapter for the brand. Presumably, the goal is to attract customers seeking more adventurous experiences beyond the typical distillery tours or visits to Glenfinnan Monument.
The HSA allows the Royal Scotsman to showcase the full range of possibilities offered by its routes, stretching from Edinburgh up the west coast to Plockton, and up the east coast to Tain. While the Highlands are renowned for their rich history and single malt whiskies, they are also known for being a vast playground for outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy hiking, climbing, and embracing the possibility of blisters and hypothermia.
Personally, I became familiar with this captivating region many years ago. During the 1980s, my family embarked on early morning journeys from Nottingham to holiday caravans owned by local farmers in Diabaig, Inverasdale, and Stoer. We would venture into boggy moorlands, skipping stones across quiet mountain lakes, and reveling in the untamed and distinctively non-Midlands landscape, despite the rain, midges, and local customs. As an adult, I continued to explore the area with my own children, opting for higher-end accommodations, but it’s the smaller adventures that have left a lasting impression.
Packing for outdoor excursions was a breeze – hiking boots, waterproof gear, and hiking trousers were essentials. The challenge lay in packing appropriate attire for the rest of the trip. The website recommended smart casual attire for most dinners, but a dark suit, tie, tuxedo, or kilt for formal events. It presented a wardrobe dilemma. Should I opt for a suit, possibly standing out among the crowd, or go all out with a tuxedo, risking being overdressed? After much consideration and reassurance from Fredrik Laseen, the general manager, I settled on the tuxedo. As the trip progressed, it became clear that I wasn’t the only guest facing fashion dilemmas. Another traveler confessed to grappling with wardrobe decisions, focusing more on indoor attire rather than outdoor gear. At the final night’s formal dinner, one guest unwittingly wore his kilt backward, causing embarrassment the next day. However, no one seemed to notice or comment on the fashion mishap. The diverse group of passengers, including space tourism entrepreneurs, wildlife photographers, tech investors, and more, all came together in a spirit of congeniality.
The entire experience felt like stepping into a vintage murder mystery, reminiscent of Belmond’s ownership of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. However, as Fredrik Laseen predicted, it was a convivial atmosphere. We celebrated a milestone birthday, took group photos, and exchanged contact information. The fact that all this transpired on regular railways added a surreal touch, as ScotRail trains passed by, their passengers observing us while we indulged in breakfast in the luxurious dining cars. As we approached Glasgow, dressed in our formal wear on the observation car’s open-air platform, we glimpsed industrial units and graffiti-adorned walls, resembling a scene from Noël Coward’s imagination.
The Highland Survival Adventure spanned two days and was organized by Wildnis, an outdoor adventure company founded by ex-British army personnel. After disembarking from the train and signing disclaimer forms, we boarded Land Rovers, and the first stop was Spean Bridge’s Commando Memorial. The memorial features three statues of soldiers in World War II battledress, overlooking the valley towards the cloud-covered expanse of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK.
We then made our way to Achnacarry, or at least near it. A forest trail led us through the rain, with occasional breaks to don and remove waterproof gear, as mist swirled amidst the towering pine-clad hills. Eventually, we descended to a thunderous waterfall, surrounded by foam and the melodious sound of water crashing against rocks. Standing on a slippery rock platform halfway down, one could easily get soaked by the waterfall’s spray within seconds. Our guides, former Marines George, Mike, and Rory, along with survival consultant Eliza, shared stories from the previous day.
Overall, the experience offered a unique blend of luxury and adventure, merging the historical significance of the Scottish Highlands with the thrill of survival training. It allowed us to truly immerse ourselves in the captivating landscapes and tap into the region’s untapped potential.
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