In 2011, Alicia Kennedy, a writer from Long Island, adopted a vegan lifestyle. Within a year, she had opened her own vegan bakery, and by four years later, she had become a freelance food journalist, offering a unique perspective on all things food-related from a meat-free standpoint. Although Kennedy is no longer strictly vegan—she now incorporates oysters, local dairy, and eggs into her diet—she continues to write about the meatless life. Her newsletter, From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy, quickly gained popularity on Substack for its blend of cultural criticism, food writing, interviews, personal reflections, recommendations, and original recipes developed in her own kitchen in San Juan, Puerto Rico, where she relocated in 2019. Kennedy’s writing style is characterized by her extensive interests, vivid descriptions, and clear explanation, all driven by her insatiable curiosity and her desire to live a rich, enjoyable, and ethical life.
Her first book, titled No Meat Required: The Cultural History and Culinary Future of Plant-Based Eating, presents a more streamlined version of her newsletter, yet it remains evident that Kennedy’s mind is always on the move. The book takes readers on a journey through the history of meatless eating in the United States, starting from Frances Moore Lappé’s influential 1971 book, “Diet for the Small Planet,” which advocated for vegetarianism as a solution to global hunger, and ending with the ongoing debates surrounding lab-grown meat and other emerging food technologies. It is also a call to action for climate activism, as Kennedy emphasizes the environmental impact of industrial meat production and the urgent need for sustainable eating habits. She argues that regularly consuming meat is unsustainable and explores ways to create abundance in the kitchen without relying on animal products. Kennedy’s ultimate purpose is to demonstrate that a life without meat can still be beautiful, fulfilling, and satisfying.
In No Meat Required, Kennedy approaches her subject matter with a refreshing lack of bias. As a meat eater myself, I appreciate her understanding and acknowledgment of the reasons why some individuals, like me, choose to continue consuming meat. She recognizes the importance of discussing food in the context of appetite and nostalgia and realizes that any significant changes to the American diet must take into account culture, gastronomy, and taste. Moreover, she highlights the link between ethical food systems and social class, advocating for fair wages and safe conditions for food industry workers, as well as accessible, nutritious ingredients for all communities. Kennedy believes that transitioning to a meat-free diet is just one piece of the puzzle in fixing the larger issues within the American food system.
What sets Kennedy apart as a persuasive writer is her confidence and self-assuredness. Her goal is not to convert or attack her readers but to educate them. Just like a skilled teacher, she presents her audience with facts and concepts to consider and absorb, fully aware that each individual will respond differently. In her book, she commends certain vegan cookbooks for their lack of preachiness and their ability to normalize a meat-free lifestyle without instilling fear or guilt. This approach resonates throughout her own work. It is evident that Kennedy has fully embraced her vision of a world where people choose to eat in a way that avoids harm to animals, the planet, and the laborers involved in food production. She stands firm in her convictions and does not waver, and that is what makes her so convincing. While she does not blame readers for their food choices, she does not shy away from criticizing the larger systems at play, such as agribusiness and factory farming. She challenges her readers to see themselves as active participants in improving the way we eat and emphasizes the impact of individual choices in creating meaningful change.
Each chapter of No Meat Required centers around individuals or groups who have found meaning in alternative ways of eating. Kennedy seamlessly weaves personal narratives into social phenomena, extracting valuable insights and perspectives from each story. For example, she delves into the crunchy, virtuous vegetarianism movement that emerged in the 1970s, characterized by sprouts, carob brownies, and hearty casseroles replacing meat as the star of the plate. While this style of cooking has lost some of its cultural prominence, Kennedy views this as a positive development, recognizing that healthy and sustainable food also needs to be delicious to appeal to a wider audience. She then explores punk veganism, which rejects corporate food systems while emphasizing hospitality, inclusivity, and indulgent flavors. Kennedy highlights scrappy, community-driven restaurants around the world as examples, as well as notable figures in the vegan food scene. She shares her own experience of making a tofu-fried sandwich that satisfies her craving for fried chicken, indicating that the taste and satisfaction factor are essential in any successful meat alternative.
Kennedy draws connections between these contemporary food movements and the countercultural cuisine of the 1960s and ’70s, particularly among Black leaders who advocated for vegetarianism and ethical meat consumption as forms of civil rights activism. She also addresses the need for preservation and restoration of traditional food cultures that have been marginalized or erased. Kennedy’s writing paints a picture of possibility and hope, fueled by the spirit of community and the rejection of corporate influence. She believes that change is not only necessary but also within reach, as long as we recognize the value of our individual choices and educate ourselves on the impact of our eating habits.
In conclusion, Alicia Kennedy’s No Meat Required: The Cultural History and Culinary Future of Plant-Based Eating is a compelling and highly informative exploration of the meatless movement in the United States. Through her writing, Kennedy showcases her extensive knowledge and passion for ethical and sustainable food practices while respecting individual choices and emphasizing the importance of cultural context. Her book serves as both an educational tool and a call to action, encouraging readers to consider the broader implications of their food choices and to become active participants in creating a more sustainable and compassionate food system.
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