Experience the paradoxical thought experiment of the Ship of Theseus, where Athenians replace every plank of the ship until none of the original wood remains. Is it still Theseus’s ship or an entirely new one? Apply the same concept to a dirty martini, replacing traditional ingredients with unconventional ones. Swap dry gin with a mirepoix-washed gin, vermouth with Manzanilla sherry, and olive brine with a solution of chicken bouillon and MSG. Top it off with a drizzle of olive oil. Does it still qualify as a dirty martini?
Jazzton Rodriguez, the innovative mind behind the chicken soup martini, certainly believes so. He explains, “People are now exploring the possibilities of the dirty martini as a template.” Mr. Rodriguez, who co-authors the blog Very Good Drinks, has gained over 600,000 views on Instagram and TikTok for his creation.
While the cocktail has faced criticism, with some suggesting it should be deleted, others express intense desire to try it out. As Mr. Rodriguez notes, “There were people who were like, ‘Oh my God, I’ve never wanted to drink a drink more than this.'”
This internet trend has moved beyond the virtual realm and into real-world bars, where bartenders are serving unconventional martinis to paying customers. New York City boasts establishments like Jac’s on Bond, offering a basil-infused, balsamic-dotted Caprese martini, and American Express’s Centurion Lounge serving a squid ink martini. In Austin, Texas, Este offers a martini made with muscadet wine and kombu seaweed, while Dear Madison in Chicago surprises with a version containing habanero mezcal and lime juice. Dante Beverly Hills includes tequila and crème de cacao in one of its seven martini options.
Bryan Schneider, the creative director at Manhattan’s Bad Roman, affirms, “Martinis are so hot right now.” To make the most of the current fascination with briny and savory cocktails, he has crafted the pepperoncini martini, which has become a popular subject of online posts by diners visiting the restaurant.
Ryan Dolliver, the beverage director at Brooklyn’s Palmetto, offers his take on the martini with pickled fennel and yuzu. He explains, “It’s essentially a savory, cold gin or vodka cocktail, but for the purpose of shorthand, we call it a dirty martini.”
Although the term “dirty martini” is relatively new, the concept of adding olive brine to the classic cocktail dates back to the early 20th century. Eventually, vodka replaced gin in some variations, though purists consider this a faux pas. In the 1980s and ’90s, bars started labeling any drink served straight-up in a V-shaped glass as a “martini,” leading to creations like the espresso martini.
As Mr. Dolliver points out, “We adapt our positions on what these things are to what customers believe they are.” Trevor Easton Langer, the bar manager at Jac’s on Bond, agrees, stating, “The word martini isn’t as much of a hard-and-fast rule as it is a descriptor of how you’re going to receive the drink. It’s much less about the contents and more about the glass.”
Apart from its descriptive purpose, the martini also carries an air of mystique. Alan Sytsma, the food editor of New York magazine, describes it as suggesting elegance and the ceremonial act of ordering one. As Mr. Sytsma, who sampled numerous martinis for the magazine’s “Absolute Best” series, states, people seek out classic libations that are widely understood.
When it comes to creating something new, Mr. Sytsma explains that playing with either the ingredients or the form of the cocktail is acceptable. However, veering into wild flavor combinations and unfamiliar forms may lead to losing the essence of the drink.
Sheryl Heefner, the general manager of Superiority Burger in New York, believes that the trend of accessorizing martinis excessively arises from competition rather than true creativity. In a city with an overwhelming number of restaurants, staying relevant and surviving is a daunting challenge. Ms. Heefner suggests that the drive to develop edgy twists on classics stems from a desire to create the next viral sensation on platforms like TikTok.
Consequently, martinis have transformed into dishes like martinis au poivre, sushi rice-washed martinis, or even martinis garnished with mozzarella. Just as there is no definitive answer to Theseus’s Ship riddle, perhaps there is no clear definition for what qualifies as a martini.
Nonetheless, most bartenders agree on one thing: if a martini contains juice, it likely belongs to a different category altogether, according to Mr. Rodriguez. As he puts it, “If there’s juice in it, I’d be inclined to call it something else.”
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