After paying the £2 entrance fee and pushing through a creaky turnstile, the sensation is akin to stepping into a different era. It’s hard to pinpoint whether it’s Victorian, Edwardian, or Nehru-era India, but one thing is for certain – it doesn’t feel like the present. From the vast expanse of the racecourse, the marble Victoria memorial shimmers in the smoggy horizon, a reminder of the city’s storied past. Kolkata, comfortable in the ruins and grandeur of its imperial buildings, seems unaffected by the rapid modernization seen in other Indian metropolises or the unsettling rise of Hindu nationalism. The racetrack itself serves as a time warp, perfectly aligning with the essence of the city, with its lingering echoes of the Raj and its thriving existence as a uniquely Indian phenomenon.
While everyone loves a winner, the question remains – which horse will come out on top? In addition to thorough research and rumors about a horse’s past performance, there’s also an element of divine intervention. Bookies hedge their bets, adorning their betting boards with flowers dedicated to their favorite deities.
The men’s fashion choices at the racetrack are idiosyncratic, with some opting for more flamboyant suits than others. However, when Bollywood music blares at the end of the day, all suits are given a full workout as the party continues. Perhaps in anticipation of this lively atmosphere, the sanctity of the afternoon nap is widely respected.
Kolkata, formerly known as Calcutta, served as the initial stronghold of British power in India. Sporting activities such as hunting, polo, and racing were highly popular due to the city’s cavalry-based army.
The first organized horse races in India took place on January 16, 1769, near Kolkata in the Garden Reach area of Akra. These races were held by the deposed king of Oudh and his descendants, who lived in lavish garden houses. The Bengal Jockey Club, established in 1803, is seen as the precursor to the Royal Calcutta Turf Club (RCTC). By 1809, horse racing had moved to the Maidan – a vast green area that was often referred to as the lungs of Kolkata and now stands at the heart of the city.
During the British Raj, the RCTC became the leading horse racing organization in India. It governed almost all racecourses throughout the subcontinent, setting and enforcing the rules of the sport. RCTC-organized races were considered major social events among the elite, often inaugurated by the viceroy of India.
In the days when the Bengal Jockey Club reigned, races were held in the mornings, followed by lavish breakfasts. The club operated as an incredibly organized institution, staying closely connected to racing affairs in England. Race results were frequently published in the British media.
The RCTC adheres strictly to the traditional British horse racing rules established by the Jockey Club of the UK. In 1908, Maharaja Bijay Chand Mahtab of Burdwan became the first Indian to be elected as a full member of the club. In 1912, after a visit from King George V, the club received its elevated status from the British government. Queen Elizabeth II further solidified the club’s prestige by personally visiting it in 1960 to award her own trophy. Each year, she sends a silver cup from Buckingham Palace for the Queen Elizabeth II Cup race. Notably, several of the Queen’s jockeys, including Lester Piggott, Wally Swinburn, and Joe Mercer, have showcased their riding skills at the track.
At the ground level, there’s an undeniable excitement surrounding last-minute gambling. There’s more to celebrate and more at stake when the race comes to an end. Some spectators prefer to remain in the hot and cavernous barn, opting for TV screens and the electrifying atmosphere of the bookies rather than witnessing the horses in person.
The owners’ and members’ grandstand exudes a distinct Ascot-like feel, but a glimpse downward reveals sari-clad women gracefully walking the course, manually fixing the divots left behind by the horses’ hooves.
As you make your way out, you may encounter a man on the pavement collecting and recycling the racecards with “BOL” on the cover. Counting his own blessings, he finds solace in generating a little income from the discarded cards.
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