Stay up-to-date with the latest travel news by subscribing to our free travel updates. Every morning, you’ll receive a myFT Daily Digest email summarizing the top travel stories. When you visit the hilltop village of Motovun in Croatia, you can’t help but be transported back in time. The 14th century gate, adorned with the winged lion of Saint Mark, reminds visitors of the village’s history under the rule of the Venetian Republic. As I sought shelter from the scorching sun under the stone gate, a festival volunteer shared her memories of a time when the streets were filled with carefree festival-goers, too drunk to make it back to their tents down the hill. This was a time when the Motovun Film Festival had a reputation for its hedonistic atmosphere.
The Motovun Film Festival was established in 1999, during a time when Croatia was still finding its footing as an independent nation after the collapse of Yugoslavia. The festival aimed to showcase the work of local, independent filmmakers as an alternative to the dominant Hollywood films on television. Like today, the festival eschewed red carpets in favor of open-air screenings. Its progressive and inclusive messaging, combined with the affordability of local wines, quickly made it popular among students in Croatia and neighboring countries. At its peak, the festival attracted up to 40,000 visitors, who either marveled at or were alarmed by the throngs of people that filled the village’s narrow lanes.
About ten years ago, the mayor of Motovun, Tomislav Pahović, organized a public meeting with the festival’s organizers and local residents. The residents had become frustrated with the behavior of visitors and the village’s reputation. When asked about the mood of the meeting, Mayor Pahović described it as intense. He emphasized the need for tourism to benefit the locals and contribute to the sustainable development of the village.
While budget-conscious film enthusiasts and students can still camp for free at the foot of the hill, both locals and festival-goers agree that the festival has shifted its focus to a more mature audience. Visitors still come for the wine, but they are increasingly interested in the offerings of young and ambitious Istrian winemakers specializing in regional grape varieties like Teran and Malvazija. Roxanich is one such winery, located just outside Motovun. It has also transformed into a boutique hotel with an infinity pool overlooking the picturesque vineyards.
Motovun is also known for its distinctive Italian cuisine with a Slavic twist, particularly its truffles. The trade in truffles has become an important business for the villagers, with the white truffle being particularly prized. In fact, in 1999, a local hunter discovered a record-breaking 1.3kg truffle.
Beyond its film festival, Motovun is a captivating destination. This year, the festival celebrates its 25th edition and embarks on a new journey by opening a second location in the forested mountains of Gorski Kotar, 120km away. Organizers have big plans for this new location, envisioning an “enchanted cinematic village” with screens placed among the trees and a unique domed cinema named Francis Ford Kupola.
While these new screens may be impressive, none can compete with the main screen in Motovun, which is set up in St Stephen’s square. As I sat in my chair during the final night of last year’s festival, I couldn’t help but admire the 16th-century clock tower of the church and the starry night sky above. No cinema in the world could compare to that.
Experience the Motovun Film Festival for yourself from July 22-24 in Motovun and July 26-29 in Gorski Kotar. For more information, visit motovunfilmfestival.com. Don’t forget to follow @ftweekend on Twitter to stay updated on our latest stories.
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