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I come from a Lebanese family that was forced to live abroad due to the civil war. However, in 1992, we returned to Lebanon, and my mother fulfilled her dream of opening a guesthouse in the town of Batroun along the northern Lebanese coast. Beit al Batroun, also known as the “House of Batroun,” started with just three rooms in 2013 and has since expanded to five rooms. It was one of the first guesthouses in Lebanon to adopt the “beit” name, setting a trend for others to follow.
When I visit my family, I usually stay in Beirut during the winter when the guesthouse is closed. But the rest of the year, I prefer to be in Batroun. The guesthouse my mother created has a warm and comfortable atmosphere. It’s built in the traditional Lebanese style, with a central liwan, an open space surrounded by two arcades. My mother is a sociable host, and we often mingle with the guests in the common areas, creating opportunities to meet new people. Arriving at Beit al Batroun instantly fills me with a sense of tranquility, even though the town has become bustling, catching up with its neighboring city, Byblos.
Despite the financial crisis that has impacted Lebanon, Batroun has emerged as the new place to be. It boasts lush greenery and stunning Levantine architecture, with beautifully restored stone-faced houses adorned with painted shutters and balconies adorned with vibrant bougainvillea flowers. People crave this escape from reality. When you arrive in Batroun, it feels as if nothing has happened – there are thriving restaurants, bars, and beach clubs. The Lebanese are known for their resilience – they carry on with life, even when everything around them seems to be falling apart.
One of my favorite morning rituals is visiting White Beach, a pebble shore I’ve been going to for the past decade. It’s a simple place, with plastic sun loungers and a no-frills restaurant housed in a basic concrete building. The sea is easily accessible, with a small patch of sand leading to deep, clear blue water. The restaurant, owned and operated by siblings, offers the freshest seafood and excellent service. If I arrive before 11 am, I indulge in a strong Turkish coffee. If it’s past 11 am, I’ll opt for an Almaza, a traditional Lebanese beer, or a locally brewed Colonel. Sitting under the hot sun, surrounded by nothing but blue and the sound of the sea, for two hours washes away all the stress and rejuvenates me for the rest of my trip.
No visit to Batroun is complete without a meal at Jammal restaurant. It’s a must-book spot due to its popularity. The restaurant is located in a small cove right on the seafront. Some of their tables are in the sea, allowing you to dine with the water up to your knees while savoring fresh fish. This year, we enjoyed the usual dishes, starting with kabis malfouf, pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with nuts, followed by grilled whiting fish and raheb, a charcoal-grilled aubergine dish. The meal concluded with tamrieh, a decadent dessert consisting of deep-fried rolls of filo pastry filled with creamy semolina and dusted with sugar.
Along the “La Route des Vins,” the scenic mountainous landscape surrounding Batroun is dotted with wineries that offer tastings and often have food options as well. My favorites are Ixsir, with its beautiful grounds, and Atibaia, whose wines my uncle-in-law stocks up on. He’s a wine connoisseur and claims Atibaia produces some of the best wines he’s ever tasted. One of the delightful experiences involves a drive up into the mountains to Sept, where a young couple has created La Table de Sept, a small restaurant with breathtaking views. Situated at an altitude of 950m, it feels like you’re on top of the world. The intimate setting with a limited number of tables offers a set menu paired with their own wines, akin to a traditional table d’hôte experience.
When I’m back home, I always make sure to buy arak, Lebanon’s aniseed-flavored alcohol. Coteaux de Botrys produces a delicious variety called Arak Kfifane. I also purchase spices from Batrouniyat or visit one of the artisan bakers and grocers located in the winding, cobbled streets of the old town. With these ingredients, I can create my own man’ouche, a traditional Lebanese breakfast of flatbread topped with za’atar, a blend of thyme, oregano, and sesame seeds. Combining za’atar with ample olive oil evokes the authentic taste of Lebanon.
For a dose of culture, I venture up the Rachana mountain road to admire the art of sculptor Anachar Basbous, who has built a museum showcasing his work. Even from the road, you can spot his sculptures seamlessly blending into the landscape. Architecture enthusiasts should take a half-hour drive north to the outskirts of Tripoli to see the Rachid Karami International Fair, designed by the renowned architect Oscar Niemeyer. Although left unfinished due to the civil war that erupted in 1975, the fairgrounds are a captivating sight for curious tourists. Sprawling gardens and unfinished architectural structures create a beautiful modern ruin.
To end the day on a high note, I recommend enjoying sunset drinks at Bolero. Settling at a low table, sipping a rosemary cocktail, and watching the sun dip below the horizon is a truly magical experience. During my last visit, the sky transformed into breathtaking shades of bright and pale pink, merging with turquoise blue. I kept capturing the beauty with my camera, but it never quite captured the essence of what I witnessed before me.
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