Let’s get straight to the point. I’ve never been a fan of waistcoats because, if I’m being honest, they always seemed a bit contrived, like wearing a tie or a one-shoulder dress. Sure, I appreciated Diane Keaton’s Annie Hall look and Kate Moss’s daring waistcoat ensemble at Glastonbury in 2007. But personally, I never felt the need for a waistcoat in my wardrobe.
Well, that has changed now. Finally, waistcoats feel like a worthwhile addition to any outfit. They are not just an extra accessory that might make you look like a hotel concierge. They are actually flattering, cool, and, above all, practical.
One reason why I’m now on the hunt for a waistcoat, and you might be too, is because they instantly elevate mid to high-waisted, wide-legged trousers. A crisp, four-button tailored waistcoat in a neutral-colored cotton, like Albary’s camel waistcoat (£35, albaray.co.uk), creates the illusion of having invested in multiple new outfits.
If you’re a T-shirt lover, wearing a waistcoat over a plain white tee with tonal trousers instantly transforms your look into something office-friendly. It adds a touch of professionalism that a T-shirt and trousers alone cannot achieve. Additionally, pairing a waistcoat with trousers, like Albary’s matching camel trousers (£55), creates a sleek sleeveless trouser suit that can easily be dressed up for an evening out. Just add earrings and shiny sandals.
Moreover, cinched waistcoats buttoned up over full-sleeved blouses, worn with wide-leg trousers or flowing long skirts, are effortlessly elegant for any occasion and will continue to be stylish into the autumn months.
I particularly appreciate waistcoats now because they provide a step up from tank tops. They are smarter and sharper, keeping your upper body looking tidy while showcasing your sleeves. Plus, they create a perfect contrast with the looser, slouchier trousers that have become so popular.
When it comes to choosing a waistcoat, there are a few tips to keep in mind. Opt for plain buttons, aim for a hip-grazing length, go for a four-button V-neck style, and avoid wide lapels. Mango offers a beige chalk pinstriped viscose waistcoat (£35.99, shop.mango.com) that can be paired with matching tailored trousers (£49.99). This four-button V-neck waistcoat features two welt pockets and is the epitome of understated elegance. Remember, simplicity is key when it comes to waistcoats. Keep them sharply tailored and mostly fastened.
Waistcoats also solve the eternal dilemma of what to do with your waistband. Should you leave a bit of shirt hanging over the top or wear a belt? It’s always a tricky decision. However, a well-fitting four-button waistcoat (three buttons are too short) comfortably covers your waistband. And if you prefer a longer silhouette, try Mango’s oversized brown waistcoat (£33, next.co.uk), which will also cover your hips.
A classic black waistcoat is a wise investment. It pairs effortlessly with cream trousers or denim and can be thought of as a modern tuxedo. Massimo Dutti offers black and pinstriped waistcoats (£69.95 and £89.95, massimodutti.com), while Jigsaw has a viscose hopsack weave style (£120, johnlewis.com). I have my eye on a dark navy wool waistcoat by Autograph for Marks & Spencer (£65, marksandspencer.com) to wear with a striped man’s shirt and jeans, reminiscent of Charlotte Rampling’s iconic style in 1974.
Now that jeans are making a comeback in flared, baggy, or bootcut styles, they pair perfectly with waistcoats for an instantly chic look. However, there are a few things to avoid when selecting a waistcoat. Stay away from halternecks, lapels, or any overly decorative details. The texture of the waistcoat is crucial – opt for cotton, viscose, wool, or perhaps a subtle tweed. Stick to muted neutral colors for a timeless appearance.
As autumn approaches, you may feel inclined to complete your outfit with a jacket to create a three-piece suit. However, for me, that’s a step too far. Instead, try layering a beige or brown wool waistcoat under a leather jacket or pairing a dark wool waistcoat with pinstripe pants. The possibilities are endless, and I can’t wait to experiment.
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