Despite a rainy July, Cobh is thriving with cruise passengers, tourists, Titanic heritage, and even dolphins. The excitement builds as a shadow darts beneath the surface of the sea. I can’t help but yell “Dolphin!” Richie Marshall, our tour guide, quickly cuts the power of our bright red rib, allowing us to stand and scan the depths. Blue and cream shapes whip about in the water. Then, there it is, a breach. Two little common dolphins pop up and dip back down. For a whole minute, they dart around in the bow waves of our boat, making the rain-soaked July seem irrelevant.
We arrived in Cobh and joined Richie for an hour-long tour of what is believed to be the world’s second-largest natural harbor (with Sydney being the answer to the question of the largest). You can also choose to take self-drive trips on smaller boats, but we opted for the rib tour around the islands and out past Roche’s Point.
The town of Cobh was bustling with activity. As we drove down Spy Hill, the sight of P&O’s Aurora cruise ship seemed almost surreal. Passengers spilled out and about, taking selfies at the Lusitania monument, enjoying pints of Guinness in Kelly’s, and admiring the steep, brightly colored row of houses called the Deck of Cards above St Colman’s Cathedral on West View.
“We’ve been around the world,” a British tourist remarked about her cruises this year. After visiting Cobh, she and her husband were heading back to Southampton.
Out on the rib, Richie shared interesting facts about the harbor. We slowed down as we passed places like Spike Island and the Irish Naval Base, reminiscing about a time when the quay walls would be lined with boats. Dinghies ducked and dived in the water as we learned about Drake’s Pool, where Sir Francis Drake once hid from a pursuing Armada fleet. We rode the waves like a rollercoaster, taking our time to explore places like Robert’s Cove, where a few brave swimmers ignored the rain. We caught glimpses of cormorants, small lion’s mane jellyfish, and sprat shoals hiding in a cave.
Just outside the harbor entrance, we saw a sailboat bouncing by at a dizzying angle, with sailors dangling their legs over the side. Richie eased off the power of the rib and said, “This is where Titanic anchored.” It was strangely moving. Even though today’s cruise ships would dwarf the Titanic in size, its story still captures our imagination. Cork Harbor was its final port of call, where Fr Frank Browne took his iconic photos before and after disembarking the ship. The Titanic Experience is now located in a former White Star Line building on the quay. Richie also pointed out a crumbling wooden structure nearby, where passengers would have boarded tender boats to the liner.
Among the photos on my phone, capturing dolphins, sailboats, and the beautiful streets of Cobh, there are also images of our hair standing on end, blown into funny styles by the sea wind and the rib’s speed. Richie laughs and calls it “boat hair,” joking that we’ll look like Jedward by the time we return.
After the tour, we brought our bouffants to Seasalt café, where we devoured toasties filled with Macroom halloumi and homemade kimchi, while sending out our summer memories turned into WhatsApp messages.
Pól’s visit to Cobh was made possible by Cork Harbour Boat Hire and Castlemartyr Resort. Rib tours start at €30 per person, while self-drive boats are available starting at €65 for a family of five. You can find more information at corkharbourboathire.com.
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