The once vibrant cobbler belt has been engulfed in darkness, leaving peaches nearly extinct. A strange winter, with moments of warmth followed by harsh freezes in March, has devastated the Georgia peach harvest. Optimistic state officials estimate that a mere 10 percent of the crop has survived. However, the situation in the fields is even more dire.
University of Georgia extension coordinator Jeff Cook, who played a role in securing federal relief, believes that even a 2 percent crop yield would come as a surprise. Thankfully, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has declared 18 Georgia counties natural-disaster areas and provided federal loans to an additional 38 counties. The total cost to the state, including job losses and lost peach sales, could potentially reach $200 million.
In a state where devouring a juicy peach over the kitchen sink is a cherished birthright, passing down cobbler recipes through generations is a time-honored tradition, and countless streets in Atlanta bear the name Peachtree, a summer without peaches is simply unimaginable.
Unfortunately, neighboring South Carolina’s orchards offer little solace as they have also suffered a devastating blow, losing 75 percent or more of their peach crop this year. The situation is truly heart-wrenching, even for Lanier Pearson, who, along with his family, cultivates peaches on over 1,400 acres in Fort Valley, Ga. Pearson’s father-in-law, a seasoned farmer in his 70s, cannot recall a year as devastating as this.
The scarcity of peaches has caused prices to soar at Atlanta-area farmers’ markets, with organic peaches selling for almost $2 each. Some grocery stores in Georgia have resorted to offering only California peaches due to the local shortage, which is akin to playing “Sweet Caroline” at Yankee Stadium.
Despite California and South Carolina being major peach producers, the loyalty to Georgia peaches remains steadfast. At Miller Union, a renowned Atlanta restaurant, Chef Stephen Satterfield refuses to supplement his meager supply, limited to just two cases per week, with peaches from other states. Instead, he embraces the scarcity by creating innovative recipes. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Claudia V. Martínez, skillfully incorporates extra thin slices of peaches into a delightful cornmeal cake with buttermilk ice cream. A peach salad with lemon ricotta, herbs, and crunchy granola features the supporting cast of tomatoes and cucumbers. The imaginative bartender is even contemplating using peach pits to craft non-alcoholic cocktails.
Amidst this year’s challenging circumstances, there is a silver lining for Southern peaches. “I will say the little amount available really shines,” reveals Satterfield.
Regrettably, some chefs have resigned themselves to the circumstances. Erika Council, owner of Bomb Biscuits in Atlanta, grew up relishing Southern peaches. Her grandmother, Mildred Council, known as Mama Dip, founded a beloved restaurant in Chapel Hill, N.C., and authored two cookbooks. Council has resorted to making jam with pineapples or cantaloupes instead of peaches. Customers will need to wait until next year for her famous peach reaper sauce, prepared with Georgia peaches and Carolina reaper peppers. She refuses to use canned or frozen peaches, given the exorbitant prices.
During desperate times, die-hard Georgia peach enthusiasts turn to South Carolina, the second-largest peach producer, if local supply runs dry. The terroir and long, hot summer days in both states yield complex, sweet, and aromatic fruit. Many of the varieties grown are even the same. Even seasoned Southern peach connoisseurs occasionally struggle to discern the difference.
Despite a friendly rivalry over taste, both states join forces in defending their peaches against those from northern or western regions. “We have some friendly competition, but we want people to buy Southeastern peaches,” emphasizes Eva Moore, communications director for the South Carolina Department of Agriculture.
The South’s loss has also reverberated to New England, where trees have endured drastic weather fluctuations, including a bone-chilling February cold snap that wiped out blossoms with temperatures dipping below zero. “I don’t think there is a peach in New England,” laments Joe Czajkowski, a fruit tree farmer in Hadley, Mass.
However, nestled between the South and New England lies a success story in New Jersey, home to a bountiful peach crop this summer. Perfect weather, devoid of excessive rain that can lead to mushy peaches, has contributed to their success, according to Pegi Adam from the New Jersey Peach Promotion Council. Nevertheless, Adam dismisses the notion that New Jersey’s triumph comes at the expense of the Southern states.
Interestingly, California is also experiencing a particularly fruitful year. Chelsea Ketelsen of HMC Farms, located south of Fresno, attributes their success to cooler summer temperatures resulting in higher sugar levels in peaches. Like other California farms, HMC is doing its best to fill the gaps left by the poor Southern supply. Ketelsen holds the Georgia peach in high regard but encourages enthusiasts to give California peaches a chance this year.
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