The latest edition of the Lonely Planet guidebook for Spain is an extensive resource, but it only dedicates four paragraphs out of its 720 pages to the enchanting island of Formentera. With a population of only 10,000 residents and being the smallest and least developed of the Balearic Islands, it seems that the locals prefer it this way. Formentera is a hidden gem that comes alive in September and October, offering warm and sunny days followed by blissfully balmy evenings. During this time, the summer crowds have dispersed, but the island’s restaurants and cafes are still open for business.
What is there to do on Formentera? Well, to be honest, not a whole lot, and that’s part of its charm. If you’re looking to party until 6 am in a nightclub, attend a strict yoga retreat where you survive on celery stalks, or explore an ayahuasca retreat recommended by TikTok, then Ibiza is the place for you. However, if you’re seeking a laid-back experience of eating, drinking, relaxing on soft beaches, swimming in turquoise waters, and browsing village markets, then Formentera should be your destination of choice this autumn. Will Hide describes Formentera as the “smallest, least developed, and most charming of the Balearic Islands” and shares his admiration for the island’s popular Ses Illetes beach.
In the 1960s, Formentera became a haven for Ibiza’s hippies who wanted to escape the mainstream culture. Artists, painters, and musicians were drawn to the island’s pristine beaches and secluded coves accessible via rugged paths. Rumor has it that Pink Floyd and Bob Marley spent time here, and Chris Rea was inspired to write the song “On The Beach.” While Formentera still exudes a carefree atmosphere, it has embraced modern amenities like superfast wifi, unpretentious restaurants, fashionable hotels featured in design magazines, and skilled baristas who have perfected their craft in Barcelona and Madrid.
During my stay, I enjoyed the comforts of the 14-room Hotel Casa Pacha located on the southern side of the island. This charming hotel offers stunning views of an idyllic beach that stretches as far as the eye can see in both directions. Despite not being a spiritual person, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility during my time on the island. Perhaps it was the gentle awakening by the sound of waves and the warm morning sun on my balcony. Or maybe it was the breakfast of pastries, eggs, and ham enjoyed by the beach. It could also be attributed to the simple pleasure of basking in the sun and taking refreshing dips in the sea. Of course, the generous pouring of gin in sundowner cocktails might have contributed to my state of bliss as well.
To explore the island, I rented an e-bike that made uphill rides a breeze. This allowed me to visit attractions like the Terramoll vineyard and the Far de la Mola lighthouse. The lighthouse, known for its spectacular sunrise views, is said to have been a temporary home for Bob Dylan in the late 1960s. One of my favorite experiences was exploring the atmospheric night market, held on Wednesdays and Sundays, where locals sell everything from espadrilles to locally crafted artwork. Formentera has an extensive network of over 60 miles of off-the-beaten-track cycling routes, with bike paths being added to main roads. At the popular Ses Illetes beach, once the car park is full, only cyclists are allowed through, adding a touch of exclusivity to the experience.
One of the perks of exploring Formentera by bike is the guilt-free indulgence in delicious meals. I had an exceptional lunch at Restaurant Tanga, located just steps away from the beach in Ses Salines Natural Park. For dinner, I enjoyed breathtaking sunset views at El Mirador, perched atop a steep hill in the eastern part of the island. Cycling around Formentera also led me to discover hidden gems, such as the remote bay at Cala en Baster, where I took a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters, surrounded only by a carefree couple enjoying the freedom to sunbathe and swim in the nude.
For the final part of my trip, I stayed at the elegant Cala Saona Hotel on the western side of the island. This modern and chic hotel boasts a spa, padel-tennis courts, a pool, and a wide beach where yachts peacefully anchor offshore. Opting for a sea view room allowed me to witness stunning sunsets from my balcony while sipping on a glass of bubbly. I took advantage of the serene surroundings to catch up on reading and enjoy the latest episodes of a true-crime podcast.
Although the sun’s intensity may be milder in Formentera during the autumn months compared to the peak of summer, the island sees fewer tourists, sparser beaches, and a warm welcome that remains unchanged. This presents a perfect opportunity for a late-season Mediterranean getaway, away from the bustling crowds, where you can embrace your inner hippy and fully immerse yourself in the art of relaxation.
TRAVEL FACTS:
– Will Hide’s trip was made possible by Visit Formentera (visitformentera.com).
– British Airways offers flights to Ibiza from Heathrow, Gatwick, and London City starting at £102 return (ba.com).
– Fly & Vai provides combined bus and ferry tickets from Ibiza airport to Formentera starting at £73 return per person (flyevai.com).
– E-bikes can be rented from MotoRent Pujols starting at £24 per day (motorentpujols.com).
– Cala Saona Hotel offers bed and breakfast accommodations starting at £223 per night for double rooms (hotelcalasaona.com).
– Casa Pacha offers bed and breakfast accommodations starting at £310 per night for double rooms (casapacha.com).
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