Susie Davidson Powell’s reviews will be back next week after a hiatus. In regards to the opening of Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Colonie’s Wolf Road corridor, I have mixed feelings. The restaurant has taken over a building that was previously occupied by Romano’s Macaroni Grill for over two decades before its sudden closure due to the pandemic. What bothers me about this establishment is its association with corporate restaurant culture, especially now that it falls under the ownership of Darden Restaurants. Darden acquired Ruth’s Chris Hospitality Group a few months ago in a $715 million deal, adding it to their portfolio of nine dining brands, including LongHorn Steakhouse and Olive Garden, both located on Wolf Road. In fact, Darden is the largest operator of full-service restaurants in the United States, with around 2,000 locations. They now own three out of the five largest steak chains, with The Capital Grille being another one of their properties. The remaining two in the top five are Texas Roadhouse and Outback Steakhouse, which are conveniently also found on Wolf Road.
Choosing between these three steakhouses on Wolf Road becomes a matter of personal preference, as they offer similar prices. A bone-in ribeye at LongHorn, Outback, and Texas Roadhouse costs around $30, while Ruth’s Chris, serving prime-grade beef that the others do not, charges $77 for their cowboy ribeye. While chain restaurants may try to incorporate elements of the local community, such as the Albany skyline at Ruth’s Chris, it often feels forced and lacks the authentic character that independent restaurants possess. Local establishments like D’Raymond’s, Cafe Capriccio, and Caffe Italia in Albany, Johnny’s and Ferrari’s in Schenectady, and Donna’s in Troy may all be Italian restaurants, but each has its own unique identity. Even Chianti il Ristorante and Forno Bistro in Saratoga Springs, owned by the same individual and located just five blocks apart, manage to maintain their distinctiveness. On the other hand, Ruth’s Chris is a replica of itself regardless of its location.
So, we have a chain steak restaurant situated amongst many other chains on Wolf Road, with an upscale yet generic ambiance, a predictable menu, and high prices comparable to other restaurants in the area. A three-course meal for two, including appetizers, entrees, sides, drinks, and dessert, can easily cost around $250 with tax and tip. If I’m going to spend that amount of money, I would prefer to support a locally owned business. However, I can’t dismiss Ruth’s Chris completely, as I did with LongHorn after one meal. My ambivalence stems from the fact that Ruth’s Chris excels at what it does. During my dining experience, I had the privilege of being served by a knowledgeable and experienced server, Henry, who was temporarily assigned from another Ruth’s Chris location. His attention to detail and expertise, honed over almost a decade with the company, was evident. Although these trainers will soon be replaced by local staff, I have confidence that they will quickly adapt. Furthermore, Ruth’s Chris has mastered the art of cooking meat to perfection, something that hasn’t always been consistent at other local steakhouses. They boast about their 1,800-degree broiler and serving steaks on 500-degree ceramic plates that sizzle with butter upon arrival. This attention to detail truly makes a difference.
My dinner companion, Tom, a steak enthusiast, was particularly impressed with his cowboy steak. As someone who prefers their steak rare, he was pleasantly surprised by the sizzling plate, which defied his expectations. According to him, it was not a gimmick but rather a clever enhancement to the dining experience. The ribeye and my trio of lamb chops were cooked exactly as requested and were exceptionally flavorful. When the quality of the meat is superb, minimal seasoning and high heat are all you need. Ruth’s Chris follows the same philosophy as Peter Luger, serving their steaks on plain plates without any additional frills. However, charging $52 to $77 for a simple presentation seems excessive, especially when compared to a dry-aged 24-ounce steak served at 15 Church in Saratoga Springs for $89, which includes accompanying sauce, side dish, and a marrow bone. While high-quality proteins can be expensive, Ruth’s Chris falls short in terms of value for certain sides. Asparagus priced at $1.40 per spear and crimini mushrooms costing $15 for a cup are less than satisfactory. Additionally, charging $28 for two golf ball-sized crab cakes seems unreasonable, especially given their careless presentation.
Despite these shortcomings, Ruth’s Chris is bound to attract a significant customer base. With its spacious bar and dining area accommodating nearly 180 people, two private rooms with a capacity of 30 each, and a 22-seat patio at the entrance, the restaurant is well-equipped to handle a large crowd. In fact, the general manager mentioned that they had reservations booked until the end of October before they even opened their doors. However, based on my past experiences with chain restaurants on Wolf Road, I doubt that I will frequent Ruth’s Chris often. I have visited Cheesecake Factory twice, enduring a two-hour wait on opening day to write about it for a column. I have also dined at Macaroni Grill twice over the course of 22 years due to farewell events organized by colleagues, as our office is located nearby. As for P.F. Chang’s, Chili’s, and LongHorn, I have only been there once each. I’ve never visited Outback, Texas Roadhouse, Red Lobster, Olive Garden, and other similar establishments. However, it’s important to recognize that I am not the target audience for Ruth’s Chris. While I typically prefer local restaurants, Tom appreciates the consistency and predictability that steakhouses offer. He finds comfort and satisfaction in knowing that places like Ruth’s Chris excel in delivering exceptional service, quality food, and a pleasant ambiance.
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