British fashion designer Kim Jones finds inspiration in the streets of Rome, where he encounters some of the most stylish women who happen to be over 2,000 years old. These women are none other than the classical statues of Rome, which serve as Jones’s muses for the Fendi show that kicks off Milan fashion week. Joining him in his creative journey are Silvia Fendi, 62, and Delfina Fendi, 36, the third- and fourth-generation women of the Fendi family whom he collaborates with, as well as the women he encounters in his daily life.
In the midst of a wave of 90s nostalgia, timeless elegance is once again in vogue. Jones skillfully translates the graceful allure of Rome’s statues, with their sweeping robes and bare marble shoulders, into simple yet stunning full-length sleeveless dresses. Gone are the drapes; instead, a long and fluid line is achieved through a fine knit fabric that gracefully envelops the body.
Alongside these feminine silhouettes, tailored pieces make their appearance, as Jones notes that many women he knows incorporate menswear into their wardrobes for its simplicity and ease. Crisp collared white shirts with a double row of buttons pay homage to Karl Lagerfeld, one of Jones’s predecessors in the Fendi design role.
The Fendi catwalk at Milan fashion week showcased long robes that exuded an air of sophistication. The models effortlessly exuded confidence as they strutted down the runway in beautiful dresses, easy coats, and classic mid-heeled shoes. Some added ladylike touches with gloves. Departing from the norm of frenetic stomping, Jones orchestrated a leisurely pace that mimicked the casual stroll of ordinary individuals on the street.
Jones injected personality into the collection through unexpected color combinations such as duck egg blue, coffee brown, and sunny yolk yellow. His aim was to make women feel good about themselves, drawing inspiration from the confidence and chicness he observes in the fashion of everyday Roman life. He sought to elevate these real-life looks with a touch of luxury.
In this season’s show, Fendi, which is among the few luxury brands yet to ban fur, opted for leather instead. As consumer demand for fur diminishes, the brand’s fur atelier skillfully worked with leather, crafting eye-catching pieces with colorful intarsia. Additionally, shearling was given a close-shorn treatment, resembling ribbed toweling in appearance.
Fendi’s show marked the start of a jam-packed Milan fashion week, featuring 59 labels, up from 54 last season. The most eagerly awaited show of the week is Gucci, where new designer Sabato de Sarno will make his debut on Friday. Grand expectations loom as the brand strives to win back affluent customers who had grown weary of the previous designer Alessandro Michele’s kitsch maximalism by offering more classic designs at higher price points.
Other notable shows include the relaunch of Fiorucci and Tom Ford’s showcase, where the debut collection by new designer Peter Hawkings will serve as a litmus test for the longevity of the Tom Ford aesthetic following Ford’s departure from the fashion industry to pursue his passion for filmmaking.
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