Stay up to date with the latest travel news by signing up for free travel updates from us. We’ll send you a myFT Daily Digest email every morning summarizing the top travel stories. My first visit to Washington was in the spring of 1985. I was only 10 years old at the time and had little interest in monuments or politics. However, I had a deep fascination with civil airplanes, while my father was more interested in military ones. As we approached the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum, my mother and brother stayed behind while my father and I eagerly ran up the steps together, hand in hand.
Today, Washington Dulles airport is one of the airports I’ve frequented the most. I used to fly on the 747, and now I fly on the 787. In a world where many airports look the same, Dulles is unique thanks to Eero Saarinen’s elegant terminal. Whenever I travel from our hotel to Dulles on the crew bus, I always try to get a window seat because the airport looks the most beautiful at night. The airport is also known for its space-age signage and the use of “mobile lounges” to transport passengers.
Last autumn, I heard that the museum had completed the first phase of its extensive renovation project. This news instantly elevated Washington to the top of my list of preferred destinations, surpassing Tokyo, Delhi, and Mumbai. Returning to the museum nearly 40 years after my first visit, I couldn’t contain my excitement. Here are the highlights of what this aviation enthusiast loved the most.
One of the exhibits that caught my attention was a glass case in the Wright Brothers gallery that showcased one of the bicycles they built. As children, my brother Jason and I shared a deep fascination with Orville and Wilbur and their aeronautical innovations, which were inspired by their expertise as bicycle mechanics. The original Wright brothers-built bicycle, one of only five in the world, was on display in the museum.
The centrepiece of the gallery is the Wright Flyer, the world’s first powered heavier-than-air flying machine that was built in 1903. This historic aircraft took off from Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, and flew for about 37 meters, marking the beginning of powered flight. I couldn’t help but pause and admire this construction of spruce, ash, and muslin, which glowed beautifully in the dimly lit gallery. It reminded me of Isamu Noguchi’s delicate lamps. As I stood there, a group of enthusiastic school children surrounded the exhibit, reminding me of the joy and wonder that aviation brings to people of all ages.
When President Gerald Ford inaugurated the museum in 1976, he asked the audience how many of them remembered hearing the news of the historic flight from Kitty Hawk. Today, the “America by Air” gallery is filled with reminders that air travel was once a novel experience. I saw a pamphlet from 1933 that answered common questions about flying, such as what to wear or whether smoking was allowed. There was also a 1934 advert that assured transcontinental passengers that the entire route was well-lit for their comfort and safety. These artifacts made me think about the earlier era of aviation when pilots relied on acetylene lamps and illuminated beacons to guide their way.
I was delighted to discover the story of Bessie Coleman in a museum that aims to celebrate the diverse history of flight. In 1921, she became the first African-American woman to earn a pilot’s license. Her photograph was later taken to space by Mae Jemison, the first African-American female astronaut, in 1992. Another inspirational figure was Jerrie Mock, who in 1964 became the first woman to complete a solo circumnavigation of the world in the red-and-white Spirit of Columbus, a Cessna 180.
Among the various exhibits, I also came across Anne Morrow Lindbergh’s flight wear. Lindbergh, a skilled pilot and acclaimed writer, accompanied her husband Charles on many groundbreaking journeys. Her book “North to the Orient,” which I consider a personal favorite, often came to mind during my trans-Arctic flights from Tokyo to Heathrow as I flew over Alaska.
While the museum isn’t large enough to house an entire 747, they have managed to display its most iconic part: the nose and flight deck. It’s so accurate in size that visitors need a platform to reach it. I also found myself captivated by the 19th-century globe that Juan Trippe, the founder of Pan Am, kept in his office. He would use string on the globe to plan new routes. This reminded me of my visit to the British Airways office and seeing an old globe and a length of string that served as a symbol of aviation’s history.
Of course, the Wright Flyer remains unmatched even by a 747. However, the Apollo 11 command module, Columbia, comes close. As a new generation embarks on future moon missions, this conical vessel’s simplicity and small size, measuring just under four meters at its base, are awe-inspiring. The irregular damage caused by re-entry adds an eerie touch. This scorched capsule, the only part of the spacecraft to return to Earth, brought back memories of the day Neil Armstrong, who had carried relics from the Wright Flyer to the moon, nodded politely to me as he disembarked the Airbus I was piloting from Munich to London.
Admission to the museum is free, but visitors must book a time slot online. It’s important to note that only about half of the museum’s galleries are currently open, with the rest scheduled to open in phases starting from 2024. Aviation enthusiasts should also make a point to visit the museum’s Udvar-Hazy Center, located outside of Washington, which houses fascinating exhibits such as the space shuttle Discovery and a Concorde.
I hope you enjoyed this glimpse into the wonders of the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum. As a British Airways pilot and author, aviation holds a special place in my heart, and visiting this museum was a true delight. Follow me on Twitter @markv747 for more aviation stories, or feel free to email me at [email protected]. Be sure to stay up to date with the latest stories by following @ftweekend on Twitter.
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