In the charming dining room of the historic Wasdale Head Inn, the renowned explorer and climber, Leo Houlding, immerses himself in the rich history of mountain adventure. Adorned on a shelf are relics from the past: a pile of weathered hobnail boots, a pair of crossed ice axes above a collection of canvas haversacks, and striking black-and-white photographs of the trailblazers who first entertained the seemingly ludicrous idea of scaling steep rock faces and majestic mountains for enjoyment.
Despite having conquered some of the most treacherous rock walls on the planet, Leo is humbled as he points out the archaic gear to his two children, Freya and Jackson. He marvels at the accomplishments of those who dared to undertake such feats without the aid of modern climbing shoes or equipment. “What they achieved is nothing short of incredible,” he exclaims.
Leo, Freya, Jackson, and I have set our sights on conquering a classic route that marked the beginning of it all: the 18-meter Napes Needle. This igneous rock formation juts out from the dizzying heights of Great Gable above Wasdale. In 1886, Walter Parry Haskett Smith ventured here, all alone, to ascend the needle. When a photograph of him standing on top of the pillar was displayed in a London shop window a few years later, it sparked a sensation, inspiring a generation of climbers. Leo is the modern-day equivalent, an inspiration for those seeking adventure. His latest book, Closer to the Edge, chronicles his extraordinary exploits.
The pioneers of old had discovered that adventure not only invigorated the spirit but also lay close at hand. I am determined to find fresh challenges right here in the UK, not just limited to climbing. I yearn to kayak, scramble, hike, and swim as well. To ignite my imagination, I will draw inspiration from trailblazers like mountaineer Haskett Smith and literary gems such as Ken Wilson’s influential 1978 collection, Classic Rock. I will also look to more recent publications like the Wild guides series to discover new experiences and ideas in four different regions of the country.
Before embarking on the climb, I decide to take an adventurous route through the scenic beauty of the Lake District. I walk across the ever-shifting sands of Morecambe Bay, an expanse of 120 square miles that has claimed many lives over the years. However, with the guidance of local fisherman Michael Wilson, who leads walks across the Bay for various charities, it is possible to traverse this treacherous terrain safely. Accompanied by Ali Pretty, who is leading the creative project Bay Lines – Beach of Dreams, we wade through channels, encountering flat fish and experiencing the peculiarities of the sand beneath our feet.
Upon arriving at Arnside, I am astounded to find a group of around 500 people eagerly waiting for Michael, who relies on a loudhailer to deliver the necessary safety instructions. “If anyone gets stuck, leave them,” he says with a hint of humor. “I’m serious. The tractors will rescue them.” I am taken aback to learn that two veteran machines will accompany us, functioning as “boats” on the sands. Michael’s expertise in navigating the treacherous sands arises from his fishing technique of laying nets overnight and checking them during low tide. This has earned him an innate understanding of the sands’ movements and ever-changing nature.
Our journey commences along the coastline, guided by a trail of pre-planted branches that serve as markers. I inquire about the dangers involved from Michael, who leads the way with his tractors and assistants forming a protective caravan ensuring everyone stays on the right path. “It can be dangerous,” he admits. “We cross three water channels, and they are constantly shifting. One of them is deepening, which will undoubtedly pose problems in the future. However, not today.”
Traveling with a guide has been customary since the 16th century when guides safely shepherded monks across the sands to Cartmel Priory, averting the perils of the lawless mountain routes. These guides tend to hold their positions for many years. Michael is only the 26th to take up this noble responsibility, while his predecessor, Cedric Robinson, dedicated an astonishing 56 years to the role. Michael’s deep connection with the bay stemmed from his early days as a young adult when he ventured onto the sands and discovered his true calling. “I’ve never wanted anything else,” he reflects.
After the captivating journey across the sands, we transition to the thrills of climbing. An hour after leaving the campsite at Wasdale Head, Leo Houlding and his wife, Jess, exhibit remarkable talent in motivating children to persevere. Engaging them through games and tales, they delay indulging in chocolates until the perfect moment. The scorching day weighs heavily upon us as we trek towards Napes Needle, devoid of any shade. Leo predicts with remarkable accuracy how each child will react, stating, “Hill walking can seem boring, but once we start climbing, you’ll see how they fully engage.”
Leo’s words hold true. The climbers’ path meandering across Great Gable demands more physical involvement, and as soon as Freya and Jackson begin using their hands to ascend, their calls for stories, games, and snacks cease. We find ourselves completely immersed in our own adventure. It makes me question the allure of climbing and how the act of utilizing our feet and hands, reverting to our primal nature as four-legged creatures, awakens dormant parts of our brains. This particular climbers’ path, bridging Sty Head and Beckhead Tarn, is a splendid option for those seeking a hands-on scramble without the need for ropes, all while relishing the vast panoramic vistas.
Nowadays, Napes Needle is not considered a challenging climb, especially for Leo, who reaches the summit in less than two minutes. From there, he expertly sets up ropes to facilitate the ascent for others. I closely follow his lead. The popularity of this route means that certain sections of the rock are as smooth as a well-worn kitchen countertop.
While the climb may be beyond the abilities of novice climbers, it is entirely feasible to scale Napes Needle with a qualified guide. Simply look for the Association of Mountaineering Instructors badge with organizations like Lake District Mountaineering or peruse listings on UKClimbing.
The initial section leads to a broad ledge, and from there, you must navigate the last boulder to reach the summit. It is truly a marvel that Haskett Smith dared to make this final move, as the descent appears even more challenging than the ascent. After enjoying fleeting moments of the breathtaking Wasdale views, I carefully make my way down, accompanied by Leo’s steadfast support. Freya and Jackson energetically scramble up, with the youngest member of the group inventing a seemingly more difficult route while maintaining a continuous stream of chatter.
Once we have all descended, the Houlding family adds an extra touch of excitement to our adventure by playfully descending the scree slope that leads back to the valley.
Finally, to complete our day of adventure, we indulge in a refreshing swim. The sun-kissed day, filled with climbing and a few bumps, has now transformed into a tranquil lakeside experience. We immerse ourselves in the serene waters of Wastwater, gazing towards the majestic Great Gable overlooking the lake.
The vivid memories of this extraordinary day resonate within me as I reflect on the allure of adventure. In the footsteps of the intrepid pioneers who paved the way for modern mountain enthusiasts, I have discovered that adventure lies not only in far-flung corners of the world but right at our doorstep, waiting to be unearthed and savored.
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