It’s an unusual experience to cycle along a sunken path, with ducks and swans swimming at eye level in the pond beyond the walls. But Cycling Through Water, a section of a biking trail in the Bokrijk forest, is just one surprise you’ll encounter on a trip to Belgium’s Limburg province.
Located near the Netherlands border, this untouched area is less than a two-hour drive from Brussels. As I drive through the lush countryside, passing dense forests, cornfields, and serene lakes, I can’t help but appreciate the beauty of this region. With over 1,250 miles (2,000km) of paved, mostly car-free trails, Limburg is a paradise for cyclists. And thanks to its innovative cycle network with clearly numbered junctions, it’s nearly impossible to get lost, even for amateurs like myself.
I check in to Park Molenheide, a campsite that offers a cozy area for tents, caravans, or campers, as well as comfortable self-catering chalets nestled among pine trees. The campsite mainly attracts cyclists and families, with its giant indoor swimming pools, fantasy adventure park, mini golf, and fishing opportunities. And for cyclists, Molenheide is the perfect base, as bike rentals are available on site.
The following day, I embark on a journey through De Wijers, a vast wetlands nature reserve with over 1,000 small ponds and lakes. Near Zonhoven, I find myself cycling along narrow paths that wind alongside the water, and I stumble upon a lookout tower perfect for birdwatching. I continue through oak and fir trees for another half-hour until I reach De Plas, a picturesque sandy beach located beside a tree-fringed lake. This hidden gem, untouched by tourism except for a simple bar serving refreshments, is an ideal spot to relax before leisurely cycling back to camp.
Although the campsite restaurants mainly offer comfort cuisine like mussels and fries or hearty pasta dishes, I discover some fantastic foodie destinations nearby. Not far from the main road leading to Hasselt is Ter Dolen, a craft brewery and beer garden situated in the courtyard of a 16th-century castle. Here, they serve delicious platters of cheeses and charcuterie, perfectly paired with their tangy Kriek ale made from local cherries. It’s a unique and delightful experience. Just a 10-minute cycle from the campsite, I find Restaurant Enfin, a surprising 20-seat dining room where chef Benny Dreesen creates small seasonal menus featuring Flemish ingredients. And less than half an hour’s drive away is Brasserie ‘t Stasjon, a fun diner housed in a converted old train station, serving salads, burgers, and mouth-watering stew. ‘T Stasjon also serves as an entrance point to the expansive Hoge Kempen national park, a must-visit for avid cyclists. During my visit, I had the chance to chat with Stefano Farraci, who was taking a breather during his 50km ride. He told me that he and his friends often rent a house in Limburg for a week of cycling. Limburg, according to Stefano, is a hidden gem in Flanders, with fewer tourists and stunning landscapes.
But Limburg isn’t just about cycling. While heading towards the town of Genk, the idyllic countryside scene is interrupted by the striking winding towers of former coal mines towering above the trees. Limburg had a prosperous coal industry in the early 20th century, but the mines closed in the late 1980s. However, two of these sites have been transformed into remarkable creative centers. C-Mine, a couple of miles northwest of Genk, stands for Creative Mine. Its towering structures and massive redbrick buildings have been converted into a hybrid venue that houses artist residences, student workshops, creative start-ups, a school of contemporary art, dance, cinema, and temporary exhibitions. Visitors can still tour the mine, with interactive displays and sound effects bringing the space to life. The top of the tower also offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. A few miles away is Labiomista, another artistic initiative in a former colliery. Genk’s progressive mayor, Wim Dries, offered the site to controversial artist Koen Vanmechelen. The park features an array of animals and 70 of Vanmechelen’s gigantic sculptures, making it a weird and wonderful collection. One particularly intriguing artwork is a stuffed goat with a unicorn protruding from its forehead.
As I head back to Brussels, Limburg has one last surprise in store for me: a wine-tasting detour to the peaceful village of Helshoven. While traditionally a fruit-growing region, a new generation of Limburgers is now cultivating vineyards. At Domaine Helshoven, a charming 18th-century manor house surrounded by vineyards, Jeroen Houten produces a variety of wines, including chardonnay, trendy orange wines, apple and pear bubbles, and even craft gin. Visitors can also camp or glamp on-site in wine barrel-shaped cabins. It sounds like the perfect place to stay on my next visit.
Overall, my trip to Limburg was an unforgettable experience. From the enchanting cycling trails to the culinary delights and fascinating art destinations, this unspoiled province exceeded my expectations. I’m already planning my return to explore more of what Limburg has to offer.
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