Lotta Klemming demonstrates her expertise by effortlessly prying open an oyster with precision. With a focused and composed gaze, she enters a meditative state while performing this task. Reflecting on her experience, she admits, “It may sound silly, but the work is actually quite meditative. It allows me to think about other things while I dive and focus on my breath and movements.” Amidst laughter, she acknowledges the paradoxical nature of her statement.
I find myself standing by the sea in Bohuslän with Lotta Klemming, a remarkable woman who holds the distinction of being Sweden’s only professional female oyster diver. After spending seven years in the fashion industry, working globally and locally to establish H&M stores, Lotta found herself caught in a spiritual crisis. She reflects, “I felt trapped, stuck in a never-ending cycle. Climbing to the top of the corporate ladder didn’t align with who I truly am. I didn’t possess the cutthroat nature required in that world.” Clad in a dry suit and equipped with an aqualung, Lotta now dives daily to harvest oysters.
Every week, she embarks on a journey to her family home in Grebbestad on Sweden’s west coast. This small town, renowned for its picturesque archipelago and long-standing fishing industry, has become her refuge. Lotta shares, “The ocean called out to me, saving me in the process. It provided the solace I desperately needed.” Her father and uncle operate a small-scale oyster company called Bröderna Klemmings Dykhjälp, which serves as a hobby and passion project, barely covering costs. In 2015, Lotta established Klemmings Ostron, utilizing the family fishing boat and boathouse. Over the past eight years, her business has provided fresh oysters to esteemed restaurants like Stockholm’s Michelin-starred Adam & Albin and Copenhagen’s renowned Noma.
Her method involves manually harvesting oysters one by one with the aid of an aqualung. Lotta elaborates, “No machines are allowed in this process. I meticulously collect the oysters in a large basket, which I cradle in my left arm. We adhere to natural daylight, setting out around 10 am and diving until 2 pm to collect and prepare the oysters.” This labor-intensive occupation exposes Lotta to extreme working conditions. She braves sub-zero temperatures in the winter and dives into waters ranging from 0ºC to 16ºC. With unwavering determination, she extracts an impressive 400 to 700 oysters per day. Although Lotta obtained her diving certification at the tender age of 12, it took her close to 15 years to consider oyster diving as more than just a hobby. Sharing her early experiences, she reveals, “My father was an amateur bodybuilder, and I believed that diving required a physicality that I lacked. Just like most fathers, he was occupied with his work and interests, and joining him on weekend dives became our way of bonding.”
Lotta initially dabbled in oyster diving during her early 20s, but found it underwhelming. Equipment malfunctions and limited visibility left her uninspired. However, after a hiatus of seven years and armed with new equipment and a renewed sense of determination, she reclaimed her passion and found herself submerged in pure bliss.
Her primary focus lies on the Pacific gigas oyster, an invasive species that emerged along the Swedish coast in 2007, most likely originating from farms further down the North Sea. The gigas oyster habitat ranges from one to three meters below the surface, while the native Swedish oyster resides at depths between three and ten meters. The wild gigas population in the Bohuslän region is estimated to be between 110,000 and 280,000 tonnes. Lotta firmly believes that cultivating gigas oysters can provide a sustainable solution both in the underwater ecosystem and on our plates. She explains, “Gigas oysters adapt well to the rising ocean temperatures resulting from climate change.” However, the impact of this goes beyond fine dining. Lotta remarks, “In Sweden, the average person consumes less than one oyster per year. Oysters are often associated with high society and extravagant events, but they are also a highly nutritious food. With increased knowledge about preparation and cooking methods, oysters can become a more accessible culinary choice.”
In addition to her oyster diving endeavors, Lotta organizes oyster safaris in the archipelago as part of her business. Enthusiastic participants, ranging from oyster lovers to adventurous souls, visit oyster banks, indulge in educational sessions about the industry, and even have the opportunity to catch their own oysters. These food and nature experiences encompass half-day courses as well as weekend retreats, complete with dinners and overnight stays at local hotels. The aim is to introduce Swedes to the wonders of oysters, a relatively new food for many. Unexpectedly, these safaris often lead to participants encountering deeply emotional experiences. Lotta explains, “During our lunches cooked over an open fire, conversations often take unexpected turns, delving into family history. I’ve observed that something profound happens to people during these moments. They place their trust in my hands and find themselves stranded on a secluded island. When Swedes consume a mere two glasses of wine, they start opening up. Emotions and buried family experiences resurface around the campfire. It has left me speechless at times, wondering what just transpired.”
Lotta finds great value in the therapeutic nature of oyster catching. She passionately advocates for the mental health benefits it offers. She shares, “When I vulnerably share my own history, people tend to open up. I have endured a difficult childhood, marked by bullying and psychiatric illness that nearly cost me my life. This profession has brought remarkable healing to me on various levels.”
Lotta’s aspirations for Klemmings Ostron reach new heights, encompassing plans for a hotel, restaurant, and headquarters located in the archipelago. Eager to progress and expand, she finds herself facing obstacles, such as negotiating with landowners and the municipality to secure a permanent space. Despite the challenges, Lotta remains undeterred. Adjusting the straps on her overalls, she gazes into the distance with determination. There is no doubt that her determination and resilience will propel her towards realizing her dream. She concludes, “The ocean has bestowed meaning upon my life. I excel in what I do, experiencing pride for the first time ever. It is where I truly belong.”
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