Witnessing a Spectacular Train Journey through Southern Italy
It took the second thud to rouse me. Worried that I had overslept, I opened the blind to find our train arriving at the port city of Villa San Giovanni in Calabria, Italy. Just before 6am, the last traces of the night sky were fading away, revealing a stunning sight: navy clouds parting ways, exposing a neon-pink streak over the Peloritani mountains in north-east Sicily.
As I witnessed the Messina Strait transform into a shimmering silver under the dawn light, the train jerked and began its journey back from where it came. To my amazement, the carriages started to detach from each other – a moment I had anticipated for years. Suddenly, my five-year-old daughter appeared on the ladder in her pink pyjamas and asked, “Are we riding on the ferry yet?”
Our epic train journey had begun a few days earlier with a Eurostar ride from London to Paris, followed by a night train to Nice. From there, we took several regional trains to Venice, where we boarded another sleeper train to Rome. However, our adventure truly began in Rome, where we caught the 11pm InterCity Notte service to Palermo. This train journey lasts nearly 13 hours, taking us along the mainland and then crossing the Strait of Messina on a ferry.
During the first hour of our ride, we watched the outskirts of Rome disappear as we knelt by the window. As we dozed off, we were awoken by the moment when the train cars were uncoupled and placed side by side on the ferry for a 20-minute crossing. Most passengers remained asleep in their compartments, but we decided to zip up our jackets over our pyjamas and head up to the deck to enjoy the fresh sea air, the cries of seagulls, and the surreal sight of our train secured in place.
We embarked on this week-long family journey through Sicily primarily to experience its incredible cuisine. I was accompanied by my five-year-old daughter, and we met up with her dad and three-year-old sister in Palermo before continuing our trip to Catania and then to the small town of Linguaglossa, located near Mount Etna, via a little-known narrow-gauge railway line. I had heard stories about Sicily’s unreliable and old trains, so I was curious to see how our journey would unfold.
Once we crossed the strait and the train was back on the tracks, we enjoyed a complimentary breakfast of croissants and Grisbi chocolate biscuits while admiring the wisteria-covered houses and gray sandy beaches that passed us by.
On the horizon, I caught a glimpse of the Aeolian Islands as the teal waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea sparkled between buildings. The train then curved above a stretch of golden sand and surf before passing by lemon groves and palm trees. Finally, we arrived in Palermo shortly before noon.
From our base at Bed in Spa, a spacious and airy accommodation in the heart of Palermo, we set off on foot to explore the Mercato del Capo food market. The fragrance of orange blossoms filled the air as we walked in the shade. Elderly Sicilians sat at outdoor tables, savoring arancini served in cupcake cases, while donning flat caps and scarves to combat the heat.
As we approached the Porta Carini, the scent of fried fish engulfed us as we entered the market. The stalls were filled with punnets of strawberries, plastic cups of orange and watermelon, and the aroma of ripe pomegranates filled the breeze. For just €1 each, my daughters enjoyed sampling chunks of fruit before moving on to inspect vacuum-packed sundried tomatoes, wobbly bags of burrata, and trays of olives that glistened like marbles. Plates of hot fried squid and potatoes tempted shoppers browsing through pistachio pesto, tubes of bottarga, and salted sardines. Vespas puttered by, their riders marveling at the display of glassy-eyed mackerel on ice.
With gelato in hand, we strolled down to the seafront Parco della Salute playground before indulging in a long and well-deserved siesta. Later in the evening, we were surprised to discover that the earliest dinner reservation we could get was at 7:30 pm. It had slipped my mind that Sicilians eat late and are welcoming toward children, unlike the English. Osteria Lo Bianco, a lively restaurant with a history spanning over 90 years, welcomed us with timber walls adorned with garlic garlands and utensils hanging overhead. When my daughter accidentally spilled her drink for the second time, the manager simply shrugged and said, “They are kids.” We were served heaping plates of traditional dishes, each of which could have easily fed two people: silky veal stew with peas, smoky lentils, and spaghetti alla glassa, a dish consisting of buttery potatoes and tender beef.
After a delightful dinner, we returned to our accommodations to rest before embarking on the next leg of our journey. The following afternoon, we arrived at Palermo Centrale for a four-hour train ride to Catania. The train was air-conditioned, had power outlets at every seat, and departed promptly. For the first 40 minutes, we sped along the coast before veering inland, passing through sheep-filled fields and almond groves. Sage-green rivers meandered through the hills, and beehives dotted the landscape, giving us plenty of opportunities to engage in a game of I Spy. Just as we passed by the town of Enna, I spotted a volcano with a scooped-out peak resembling an ice cream cone. We reached Catania in the evening and enjoyed a delicious dinner at a trattoria near our Airbnb before retiring for the night, exhausted from the day’s heat.
Our train journey truly became a memorable experience in Catania. With freshly fried fritto misto in hand, we embarked on another train ride under the scorching sky. This time, we traveled along the coast to the town of Giarre-Riposto. The train curved around the backs of houses, passed by giant aloe vera plants and offered hazy views of the ocean. Within just 20 minutes, we arrived at our destination, where we crossed the road and made our way to a small station to catch the Ferrovia Circumetnea – also known as the round-Etna train. Just three minutes before departure, a narrow-gauge engine arrived, clattering and hissing to a halt. Its doors swung open like those of a school bus, which was fitting because every passenger on board was a schoolchild. Built in 1890 to assist farmers with transportation, the 950mm train now primarily transports students.
As the train chugged uphill, closely skirting stone walls and passing by farmland, lemons thumped against the windows, causing leaves to snap off. At every turn, the majestic Mount Etna dominated the landscape, its snow-capped peak crowned with a delicate wisp of smoke. The slopes were covered in olive trees and vineyards, and chickens scattered in every direction as the train screeched around corners before finally slowing down upon reaching Linguaglossa. A long-haired man wearing glasses stood at the steps, welcoming us with a smile. This was Alfio Puglisi, who led us downhill to his family home, Palazzo Previtera – our accommodation for the next two nights.
Since its construction in 1649, Palazzo Previtera has remained in Alfio’s family. Over the past decade, they have dedicated themselves to transforming it into a museum, library, and a guesthouse with eight rooms (along with two cottages). The rooms feature vibrant contemporary artwork on walls painted in pastel shades, complemented by traditional family heirlooms, such as headboards decorated with mother of pearl. In the garden, which is home to olive, kiwi, peach, and fig trees, my daughters spent hours playing hide and seek.
Alfio Puglisi, co-owner of Palazzo Previtera, took care of every detail of our stay. He greeted us daily with a different pair of designer sneakers and ensured that everything went smoothly, from freshly baked croissants at breakfast to pizza deliveries and impromptu games of musical statues on the kitchen terrace.
We savoured every moment of our unforgettable train journey through southern Italy, soaking in the sights, tastes, and experiences that Sicily had to offer. Our adventure continued as we made our way to other fascinating destinations, immersing ourselves in the rich culture and natural beauty of this remarkable island.
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