This weekend, the RHS Autumn Show is taking place in Malvern, Worcestershire, at the prestigious Three Counties showground. While the Michaelmas daisies at the show are undoubtedly beautiful, I will be staying at home and tending to my own flowers. Last weekend, I had the pleasure of attending a charming alternative flower show in Belgium, which was an enchanting experience.
Since the early 1990s, the magnificent château at Hex, Belgium, has been hosting yearly garden festivals, one at the beginning of summer and another at the start of autumn. Hex is nestled in a picturesque countryside, boasting lush green landscapes and fertile soil. It is conveniently located about 45 minutes’ drive southwest from Maastricht or half an hour from Liège station.
The mastermind behind the show is Count Ghislain d’Ursel, the owner of the château. He described the château as “a house with a soul” because he and his wife, Stéphanie, still reside there. The château was built in the 1770s and Count d’Ursel, along with his adult children, are passionate about animating the flower show for future generations. Hex attracts numerous exhibitors, making it a show for true connoisseurs, and there is a palpable sense of family among both the exhibitors and attendees.
My first encounter with Count d’Ursel was for a casual supper with the exhibitors. We sat at wooden tables as the evening light gently faded after a hot day. We savored delicious beer and beefburgers made from meat sourced from his own Aberdeen Angus herd. Over the course of the evening, I had the opportunity to chat with growers who have been friends for many years. They showcased a diverse range of flora, from roses and clematis to unique varieties of lagerstroemia. While exhibitors used to come from the Netherlands, Germany, and Britain, the Brexit situation has unfortunately resulted in the absence of British exhibitors, much to everyone’s regret.
Count de Velbrück, the founder of the château in the 1770s, would surely admire the show. He was appointed the prince-bishop of Liège and his portrait in the château features him resting his hand on a large book. However, this book is not a Bible; it is an enlightened treatise on the human population as a family. Despite being a Catholic bishop, Count de Velbrück fathered two children with his mistress and was so beloved by the locals that his grave was spared when the cathedral in Liège was destroyed during a surge of revolutionary fervor. In his garden, he even placed a painted sculpture of the Buddha, whose hands sway with the wind.
The identity of the château’s architect remains unknown as the archives have been destroyed. Nevertheless, the château stands as a testament to the grandeur of the ancien régime. It is constructed from brick and features long windows and sloping roofs in the French style. Just beyond the walls of the expansive vegetable garden, there is a special tribute to Count de Velbrück himself. He commissioned a small mausoleum beside a grassy avenue that was once a bee garden. The mausoleum still stands, serving as a commemoration of his favorite horse, Venus, who is buried beneath its floor.
The château’s garden is meticulously maintained in the style of a jardin raisonné. The tall hedges are impeccably clipped, and the yew trees along the edges are sculpted into mounds and spires, reminiscent of theatrical scenery. The credit for the expert clipping goes to Jo Ramaekers, a skilled local craftsman who maintains the hedges by eye.
After admiring Count d’Ursel’s plans to integrate the garden with the park beyond using an un ha-ha, I descended steps into the extensive vegetable and flower garden. This area is cared for by four gardeners under the guidance of Gust Duchamps, the head gardener for the past 18 years. The zinnias were in full bloom and the white cosmos daisies towered over my own back home.
Unfortunately, due to Brexit, British visitors are no longer allowed to take bulbs or plants back home. However, I did come across a mesmerizing hyper-blue Salvia guaranitica that will stay etched in my memory. Despite this setback, I’m determined to find a memento from the show, particularly a vibrant yellow-flowered geum called Tales of Hex, which is known for its longevity and blooms for months. Luckily, this geum is already available from British supplier Hardys Cottage Garden Plants.
The Hex show exudes a sense of community, reminiscent of a rare plant show in an English village. However, it offers a greater variety and is masterfully curated by an owner who has also served as the executive president of the European Historic Houses Association.
I discovered many unique offerings at the Hex show that won’t be found at the Malvern show. Heleen Calcoen from Kweek nursery near Gent represents the younger generation and sells packets of rare vegetable seeds, some of which are harvested exclusively from plants she grows herself. She introduced me to parsley peas, which have curly leaves that beautifully complement pea pods and can also be utilized as a garnish. Christian Berdal showcased a display of recent rose varieties bred in dialogue with the pioneering work of the renowned Rev Pemberton, who originated the musk rose. In addition, I was captivated by the exquisite rare clematis from Ladakh on display at Mandragora nursery’s fine stand.
In the main courtyard, I had a delightful conversation about the excellent Belgian quarterly magazine, Eden. This publication offers dreamy features on British and European gardens and is truly a paradise for avid garden enthusiasts. I also had a fascinating discussion about millet and its qualities with Peter Bauwens, a seasoned participant in the Hex show and an esteemed contributor on millet to Eden magazine.
Nijssen Bulbs from Heemstede brought a tantalizing selection of varieties from their fantastic catalog, which will undoubtedly benefit any EU-based garden enthusiast. I was particularly drawn to their assortment of autumn-flowering colchicums and discovered that they offer 26 varieties of fritillary plants for sale, along with an additional nine varieties of Crown Imperial. Among these offerings, I was particularly enamored with Fritillaria ariana, a stunning open pink-white flower with dark nectaries that thrives in central Asia. Finally, I marveled at the bulbs of the wondrous Fritillaria gibbosa, which can be purchased for €17.50 each. In fact, I had the privilege of photographing this fritillary’s branch-line in Balochistan during a expedition last February, organized by a search party.
Overall, the weekend was nothing short of heavenly, filled with courtesy, charm, and a surprising sting. Unfortunately, due to Brexit, British gardeners are now limited in their options and can no longer take bulbs or plants back home like they used to in the early years of the show. However, I remain hopeful and will continue my search for a memento from the Hex show. In particular, I am determined to find a yellow-flowered geum named Tales of Hex, a robust and vibrant perennial that is fortunately already available from Hardys Cottage Garden Plants, a supplier in Britain.
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