In 1987, my aunt Carol, a passionate traveler and music enthusiast, took an impromptu detour during her drive back to the UK from the Algarve. She decided to visit the Montreux jazz festival on Lake Geneva, a town with a rich musical history. She arrived in my parents’ driveway one day in July, overflowing with cassette tapes from the gigs she had attended. As she shared her experiences with me, I became captivated by the stories of this picturesque Belle Époque town and its association with legendary musicians like Nina Simone, Deep Purple, and Freddie Mercury.
Now, years later, I find myself walking along the flower-filled lakefront of Montreux with my son Matt. We’re here on a day trip, making our way to another music festival in the nearby vineyard village of Cully, called CullyJazz. While CullyJazz mainly showcases up-and-coming European bands and attracts around 60,000 visitors annually, the Montreux jazz festival, featuring headliners like Bob Dylan, Iggy Pop, and Norah Jones, draws in a staggering 250,000 attendees.
During a walking tour led by Lucien Muller of Freddie Tours, I learn more about Freddie Mercury’s connection to Montreux. He lived in lakeside apartments here in the late 1980s until shortly before his death in 1991. Initially, Freddie didn’t appreciate Montreux, voicing his opinions about the recording studio being better located at the bottom of the lake. However, over time, he grew to love the town and the sense of peace it offered. He admired how the locals treated him with discretion and minimal fuss, embracing the tranquility of Montreux.
Montreux has been a welcoming hub for talented musicians from various genres for decades. In 1967, Claude Nobs, the director of the local tourist office at the time, co-founded the Montreux jazz festival. Originally featuring only jazz gigs, the festival quickly lured renowned artists like Keith Jarrett, Charles Lloyd, and Ella Fitzgerald. Deep Purple’s famous song “Smoke on the Water” was inspired by the 1971 fire at Montreux’s casino, which Nobs helped navigate and rescue concertgoers from. Lucien recounts how the fire brigade was occupied elsewhere when an audience member ignited the blaze during a Frank Zappa concert. Deep Purple immortalized the incident in their lyrics, singing, “But some stupid with a flare gun/Burned the place to the ground.”
The Freddie Tour concludes at the Queen Studio Experience, a free museum that recreates Mountain Studios within the rebuilt Casino Barrière. Lucien shares that Eugene Chaplin, son of Charlie Chaplin, worked as an early sound engineer at the studio, recording renowned acts like Queen and the Rolling Stones. The Chaplin mansion, located nearby, has since transformed into an extraordinary museum called Chaplin’s World.
While exploring the region, travelers can utilize the Lac Léman train and bus network. Visitors attending the Montreux or Cully festivals can take advantage of a Lavaux travel card, provided by most local hotels, which offers free access to the train and bus services. This allows festivalgoers to experience the beauty of the vineyards and other local attractions without missing out on the music. Aside from the scenic countryside, there are notable sites such as the medieval Chillon Castle and the recently opened Chillon Fort, a World War II bunker nestled into the mountainside.
On a cool and overcast day, we embark on a six-mile walk through the vineyards. The usual breathtaking view of the lake and valley is obscured by low cloud and drizzle. However, this allows us to appreciate the beauty in our immediate surroundings—waterfalls, ancient stone hamlets cascading down the slopes, and small cogwheel railways designed for workers navigating the steep terrain. As we venture higher, we’re delighted to spot a black redstart, a bird rarely seen in England, perched on a nearby wall.
During our stroll, we encounter Lavaux Vinorama, a hub for local wine producers where they sell bottles from the entire valley. The convenient train connections between lakeside villages like Lausanne and Montreux make it easier for those seeking to enjoy a glass of wine or two.
In the charming village of Saint-Saphorin, adorned with ancient stone buildings and vibrant flowers growing from weathered walls, we stumble upon a wine fridge with a contactless payment device. The trust involved in this setup is astounding, with each bottle priced at £20. The labor-intensive nature of working on these slopes makes the local wine relatively expensive, but the taste is worth every penny. Every glass we sample at the local caveaux, or wine bars, stands as a testament to the delicacy and refreshing qualities of these white wines. For lunch, we retreat to the Hôtel du Léman, where we relish the stylish interior with stained glass accents despite the drizzly view.
The following day, after enjoying a performance by UK-based neo-soul singer Summer Pearl at CullyJazz, we venture up the mountain above Montreux. In Haut de Caux village, a favorite spot of Claude Nobs, we meet two English women who had accidentally disembarked at the wrong station. Opting to make the best of their situation, they decide to indulge in an apricot sundae at the beautiful chalet-style Le Cou Cou restaurant. One of the women reveals that she will be celebrating her 80th birthday soon and expresses her unwavering dedication to honoring Freddie. She remarks on the breathtaking view of the lake thousands of feet below and admits that they keep coming back every year, despite initially assuming it would be their last. My aunt Carol may have favored Nina Simone, but the sentiment these women hold for Freddie Mercury would surely resonate with her.
In addition to the vibrant music scene, visitors can also explore the area’s other attractions by utilizing the Lac Léman train and bus network, which offers free transportation with a Lavaux travel card provided by most local hotels. This allows festivalgoers to experience the beauty of the vineyards and other local sights without missing any performances. Additionally, visitors can immerse themselves in the history and charm of Montreux-Vevey by visiting medieval landmarks like Chillon Castle and Chillon Fort. The region offers a diverse range of experiences, from wine tastings in scenic vineyards to walks through picturesque villages and breathtaking views of the lake and mountains.
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