While leaving my wife and daughter under a parasol on the beautiful beach of Bordighera, my teenage son and I embarked on a quest to find the largest Ficus macrophylla tree in western Europe. This magnificent tree, also known as the strangler fig, was planted in 1886 by a remarkable British botanist named Clarence Bicknell. Bicknell, who was not only a collector and lover of Esperanto but also a chaplain of Bordighera’s Anglican church, found solace in the hilly, pine-covered coast between Sanremo and the French Riviera after growing disillusioned with his “tea-party, gossipy” British congregation, who lacked an “international spirit.”
To this day, the town’s Museo Bicknell proudly displays all of his accomplishments, including his extensive collection of butterflies, sketch books, pressed flowers, a microscope, and a sepiolite clay pipe. Visiting the museum offers a glimpse into Bordighera’s thriving British community of the 1880s, which outnumbered the local population with over 3,000 residents. These British expatriates were responsible for establishing Italy’s first lawn tennis club and cultivating exotic gardens around their extravagant villas. As you approach the museum, you’ll notice the building engulfed by a captivating wisteria vine, adorned with drooping, purple flowers during the spring. Nestled behind the museum’s entrance gate stands the awe-inspiring 21-meter-tall strangler fig tree, its branches adorned with aerial roots and a delicate palm tree growing amidst its buttress roots. Beyond the museum’s confines lies a garden filled with monstrous-looking ficus trees, where pine, oleander, lemon, and aloe plants burst through the surrounding fences.
Walking along via Romana, we pass by the art nouveau villa Regina Margherita, named after the same queen who inspired the delicious pizza bearing her name. Our destination is the medieval old town in search of refreshing water fountains and delectable ravioli. Perched high above the coast, the pentagon-shaped città alta is a labyrinth of narrow streets, adorned with potted plants and flower-adorned bicycles. No map is necessary as all roads lead to the same shady squares lined with whitewashed walls and a few restaurant tables offering respite from the sun. Osteria Magiargè serves mouthwatering ravioli stuffed with ossobuco and saffron cream, as well as a delectable herb-infused version with butter and thyme. Just a short distance away, La Cicala offers green ravioli filled with aubergine in a cherry tomato sauce, along with the local specialty of fried courgette flowers accompanied by burrata cheese.
Though the old town stays cool thanks to its arcades and narrow walkways, the seafront promenade in Bordighera lacks shade. About halfway along the promenade, you’ll stumble upon a rust-colored bandstand dedicated to the iconic Evita Perón, who inaugurated the Lungomare Argentina during her visit in 1947. Flanking the bandstand are ice-cream parlors, bike rental shops (offering a flat ride to Sanremo just eight miles away), and restaurants built on stilts above the beach.
Aside from its stunning landscapes and delightful ravioli and brandacujun (a creamy cod dish with olives and potatoes), Bordighera is renowned for its mouthwatering pastries. Make sure to grab a slice of chocolate and pear tart or apple and maraschino tart from U Pesigu on via Vittorio Emanuele. And don’t forget to indulge in an adorable hedgehog-shaped ice cream from a nearby gelateria. With delectable treats in hand, take a leisurely stroll onto the smooth pebbled beach that still retains its summer vibes, with parasols dotting the sand and loungers inviting relaxation.
Resting by the water, my wife and daughter watch over bicycles that belong to Tiziana and Tommaso, a couple who have been cycling along the Riviera dei Fiori from Genoa to Ventimiglia. Tiziana shares their fantastic journey, which has included visits to picturesque places like Cervo and San Lorenzo al Mare, even encountering whales along the way. However, they express their love for Bordighera due to its peaceful beach and the ability to dine with a breathtaking view of the sea. Tommaso eagerly anticipates returning to Bordighera on Thursday to experience the vibrant clothes market. Today, they explored Dolceacqua, a charming valley that captivated Claude Monet, and tomorrow they are off to Menton, a beloved destination of Queen Victoria.
During the outbreak of the Second World War, the British residents of Bordighera fled, leaving behind a town adorned with citrus trees, exotic plants, and botanical gardens. Those with an affinity for cacti will find delight in the Pallanca Exotic Garden, located on the coast road to Sanremo, which boasts over 3,000 varieties of cacti and succulents.
On the eastern seafront, just beyond a small marina, you’ll discover Villa Garnier, an architectural gem designed by Charles Garnier in 1873. Visitors can explore Garnier’s terraced garden, featuring a stunning array of flora such as the dragon tree, date palms, and bird-of-paradise flowers. The garden even houses a solitary column from the Tuileries in Paris.
As the late afternoon sun casts a golden glow over the scenery, we make our way back up through the old town towards the Beodo palm grove. Following a mule track and tunnel, we reach a viewpoint that once captivated Claude Monet during his visit in 1884. Though the trees have grown taller since then, the view remains unaltered, allowing us to step back in time and witness the enchanting beauty that Monet himself witnessed.
For accommodations, Villa Garnier offers guest rooms and apartments within its gardens, and it serves as a perfect base for exploring Bordighera. Those arriving by train will find that Bordighera is just a seven-minute ride from Ventimiglia, with the train station conveniently located right behind the beach on the Lungomare Argentina.
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