Upon arriving at the Eastwind Oliverea Valley hotel, the aftermath of a powerful thunderstorm set a somewhat eerie scene reminiscent of a horror movie. The low-hanging clouds seemed to glide over the property like silver serpents, and the scattered piles of wood gave off sinister vibes. The collection of cabins, all facing towards a central lodge, created an atmosphere that whispered “cult compound.” However, the newly opened Eastwind Oliverea, a modern hotel in the Hudson Valley, proved to be a pleasant surprise.
Out of all the recently reviewed resort hotels, such as Clay at Wildflower Farms, Piaule, Casa Susanna, and Inness, Eastwind Oliverea’s restaurant, Dandelion, stood out as the best value. The horror ambiance faded as we entered the hotel reception and made our way to the inviting restaurant space. Dandelion had a Scandinavian and midcentury design influence, exuding an après-ski vibe with its vintage orange Malm fireplace and warm wooden surfaces. The restaurant boasted vintage lamps, bentwood and rattan chairs, Missoni armchairs, and a lively bar serving cocktails at reasonable prices. The servers, adorned in strappy aprons, greeted us with friendly smiles. Our server, an Englishwoman, boldly claimed that the pork chop on the menu was the best she had ever tasted, prompting us to order it.
Before diving into the main course, we were served a pair of impeccable appetizers, referred to as “smalls” on the menu. The burrata salad showcased the classic combination of cheese and vegetables, featuring impressively ripe tomatoes and a refreshing lemon vinaigrette. The trout dip, accompanied by homemade potato chips, was a triumph. The smoky flavor of the fish was beautifully complemented by crème fraiche, aioli, parsley, dill, and red onion.
Moving on to the main courses, two standout dishes were the striped bass with asparagus, zucchini, and bell pepper sauce, and the highly praised pork chop. The striped bass was a revelation, with its perfectly cooked fish and charred skin that added a delightful smokiness. The pork chop, dry-aged for 21 days and seared in a cast-iron pan, showcased a crusty exterior and a tender pink center. Accompanied by perfectly seasoned apples and a creamy fennel puree, the dish was a flavorful masterpiece.
As we inquired about any wild ingredients on the menu, the attentive staff surprised us with a complimentary plate of yellowfin crudo, caught off Long Island the day before. This thoughtful gesture highlighted the exceptional hospitality and effective communication at Dandelion. The yellowfin crudo was a true delight, showcasing the freshness of the ocean.
Dessert was a fancy take on the classic chocolate-orange combination. The chocolate cream pie with kumquat compote perfectly balanced saltiness and richness, with indulgent notes of candied marmalade. After enjoying this delectable dessert, we were pleasantly surprised by the reasonable bill of $167 for two appetizers, two main courses, one dessert, and a bottle of red wine, excluding tax and tip. We left the restaurant feeling satiated, delighted, and completely satisfied with the experience.
As we stepped outside into the night illuminated by the warm glow of the cabins, the previous horrors seemed like a distant memory. The Eastwind Oliverea Valley hotel had exceeded our expectations, offering a Memorable experience filled with culinary delights.
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