“Guess what Dylan would absolutely adore,” our friendly next-door neighbor exclaimed to my mother over the garden fence. “There’s this fabulous new restaurant that just opened in Exeter, called Wagamama. It’s a Japanese place.” Ever since I was a teenager living in Devon, I’ve been completely fascinated by Japanese culture. Wagamama caused quite a stir in the restaurant scene of the southwest. A trip to Topman followed by a chicken katsu from Waga’s quickly became the favored activity of Exeter’s urban elite. However, Japan has captivated the world long before that, even going back to when Marie-Antoinette impressed Versailles with her collection of Japanese lacquerware. From Mario Kart to the writings of Haruki Murakami, Japanese culture has made its mark in various fields, and its cuisine has gained widespread popularity in top hotels and restaurants worldwide. Unfortunately, like many Britons, I can’t just hop on a plane to Japan for a sakura blossom tour followed by miso-glazed Magikarp in Ginza. Initially, my partner and I were planning a trip to Tokyo in October 2020, with plans to visit the multitude of small bars. Little did we know that lockdown was on the horizon. Luckily, London offers plenty of Japanese options that will have to suffice for now.
Discovering the Tranquil Beauty of Kyoto Garden
Tucked away from the posh Holland Park Avenue lies a serene oasis of tranquility. Kyoto Garden was gifted to London by the city of Kyoto to commemorate the friendly relationship between our nations. It opened its doors to the public in 1991. As I strolled through, I couldn’t help but feel a bit out of place, as I always do in the wealthier parts of West London. I also had a strong urge to vape, but it just didn’t feel right to puff away in the regal presence of peacocks and Japanese maple trees. The cascading waterfall flowed gracefully through the Japanese foliage, leading to a glistening pond where giant koi carp would occasionally emerge, resembling majestic whales. I shamelessly staged a full-blown photoshoot on the narrow bridge, ignoring the passersby. I fully embraced my role as an insensitive tourist, disrupting the flow of the Kyoto garden with my Duolingo lessons and selfie obsession.
A Casual and Comforting Lunch at Tokyo Diner
Pressing on, I entered Tokyo Diner through its unassuming facade, lacking any English signage. As I stepped inside, it instantly transported me to a cozy hotspot in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district. The restaurant was adorned with light woods and glowing lanterns, and the friendly staff effortlessly weaved between tables, serving steaming bowls of deliciousness. The menu focused on casual comfort food. The witty little notes peppered throughout playfully offered free rice refills, free green tea, and slightly worrisome-sounding free “Thames water.” When the bill arrived, a bold message declared, “We do NOT accept tips.” I opted for the lunchtime oyakodon bowl – a tantalizing mix of rice, egg, and perfectly simmered, succulent chicken. I paired it with a refreshing Sapporo beer, and for a moment, I felt like I was in paradise, far away from the bustling streets of central London.
A Pilgrimage to the Japan Centre
A visit to the Japan Centre has become a right of passage for Japan enthusiasts in the UK. Hidden behind Piccadilly Circus, it started as a bookshop catering to London’s Japanese community in 1976 and has since evolved into a full-fledged mini-franchise. This canteen-supermarket-homeware store hybrid is a dangerously tempting place where I often find myself casually strolling in, only to emerge hours later considerably poorer. It’s not the most budget-friendly place – a lovely stoneware plate can easily set you back £50 or more, and specialty sake bottles are priced over £40. I exercised some self-control and settled for browsing, particularly enjoying the vast selection of Japanese magazines. It’s not every day that we spend hours poring over magazines in stores, so this in itself felt like a delightful novelty.
Embarking on an Adventure at Cyberdog
Cyberdog, a staple of Camden, is a neon-drenched wonderland. It specializes in rave attire that would leave even Honey Dijon in need of a break. It’s notorious for recreating the nightclub culture in the middle of the day. Embracing the vibrant, color-saturated maximalism of Tokyo’s fashion hub, Harajuku, it’s unabashedly tacky but boldly defiant in its naffness. Their bucket hats are adorned with neon tiger stripes, sunglasses feature flashing LED lights, and tucked away in the back, the adults-only section resembles a Luc Besson-directed porn shoot. I happily soak in the energetic atmosphere, feeling transported to a 27th-century interplanetary cantina. The incredible staff perfectly embody this futuristic vibe, and I manage to convince them to let me try on various outfits for photoshoots and even get behind the DJ booth (with strict instructions not to touch anything, of course).
Indulging in a Memorable Dinner at Dotori
Dotori, part of a Japanese fusion establishment, is known for requiring its customers’ commitment – they don’t take reservations or credit cards. Located on a bustling side street, the setting may be forgettable, but the food is anything but. It’s a testament to the restaurant’s reputation that at 6 pm on a weekday, I managed to secure one of the last available tables. I was delighted to discover that it had a number of solo dining options, allowing guests to enjoy their meal without any self-consciousness. As I savored every bite of my scallop katsu and sesame-marinated jellyfish from the special bento box, I couldn’t help but notice the other diners engrossed in their plates, with one eye on the soy sauce and the other on dog-eared copies of Ishiguro and Rooney. The bento box, although quite expensive, was truly a treasure trove of perfectly sliced and exquisitely prepared Japanese cuisine.
As I made my way home in the rain, I contemplated the idea of visiting a gay sauna to recreate the legendary bathhouse from Spirited Away, but quickly dismissed it as a step too far.”
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