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Europe has a hidden gem in the form of Albania’s scenic wilderness. For 46 years, Albania’s landscapes remained cut off from the world during the country’s communist era. But times have changed, and now even Leonardo DiCaprio is supporting the preservation of Albania’s rugged nature. To safeguard Europe’s last wild river, the Vjosa, outdoor brand Patagonia made a significant investment. The CEO of Patagonia, Ryan Gellert, became involved after spending a night sleeping on the Vjosa’s riverbank seven years ago. However, as the popularity of Albania’s Adriatic coastline continues to grow, there is concern about how to preserve its wild charm.
To truly experience Albania’s untamed beauty, venture into the country’s hinterlands. Here, former farmers have transformed their homes into guesthouses that embrace slow rural tourism. One of these remarkable places is Albanik, located in the Deshnica valley of the Vjosa. Elona Bejo, the host, offers guests a taste of tradition with sumptuous meals made from local ingredients. She also leads hikes along the Vjosa’s trails, where guests can explore medicinal herbs and visit Bektashi shrines. While rooted in tradition, Albanik also offers modern touches like yoga retreats and vegetarian cuisine.
Albania has maintained a relatively uninterrupted tradition of sustainable practices, only briefly disrupted during the country’s mid-’90s transition. Bejo explains that locals often tap into their parents’ knowledge, allowing them to live self-sufficient lives. Visitors to Albania hope to learn from this self-reliance. The Accursed mountains, located north of the Vjosa, offer adventurers stunning landscapes and served as a protective barrier for local Highland clans who adhered to the Kanun of Lekë Dukagjini. While the blood feud laws of the Kanun have mostly subsided, the emphasis on honoring visitors remains. In the Valbona valley, dotted with family-run agrotourism guesthouses accessible along the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail, the saying “the house of the Albanian belongs to the guest” rings true. Despite the lack of road connections, these guesthouses offer breathtaking mountain views, treks through pristine landscapes, and encounters with wildlife such as bears, wolves, and lynxes.
Another exceptional agrotourism experience can be found at Neomalsore, accessible via a boat ride through Lake Koman’s stunning canyon. The Molla tribe has a legendary reputation for their hospitality, serving travelers exquisite food and wine while honoring the Kanun. Neomalsore, meaning “new Highlander,” exemplifies luxury through simplicity. Everything at this guesthouse is produced onsite with zero waste. Guests can enjoy seasonal meals by candlelight and partake in activities such as fishing, swimming, and Highland baths. In the colder seasons, the family warms guests with rakia and mountain tea by a blazing hearth. The tranquil nights offer unobstructed views of the star-filled sky.
These agrotourism retreats not only provide a reconnection with nature but also showcase the resilience of the Highlanders who faced stigma during the 2000s as young Albanians sought urban prosperity. Social media allows the owners of these secluded guesthouses to showcase their way of life to a global audience. One such owner, Marjana Koçeku, shares her experiences herding goats and boats on Instagram, attracting tens of thousands of likes. Through these platforms, she aims to demonstrate the beauty of returning to one’s roots and embracing a simpler way of life.
In addition to these unique agrotourism experiences, Albania offers other adventures worth exploring, such as a visit to Mrizi i Zanave Agroturizëm in Lezhë, where a ruined farmhouse has been transformed into a restaurant and farm with rooms. Les Villas de Qeparo provides unspoiled seaside getaways along the Adriatic coast. And Hotel Tradita in Shkodër offers a taste of traditional Albanian cuisine and lively restaurant parties in the old town.
For those interested in experiencing the wild side of Albania, albaniantrip.com, in partnership with Intrepid Travel, offers a wild eco-tour of the country. Information on hiking trails is also available at journeytovalbona.com.
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