Discover the Fascinating Revival of Çinili Hamam in Istanbul

Broken traditional Iznik tiles, old Byzantine column capitals, and a remarkably preserved coffee cup. The restoration of Istanbul’s Çinili Hamam has become a 13-year endeavor for Koza Yazgan and her family, unearthing centuries-old artifacts and shedding light on the origins of relics throughout Europe. What began as a plan to convert the hamam into a profitable tourist attraction quickly transformed into a mission to preserve and showcase its historical treasures. The addition of a museum complex to the site created further complexity but also honored the hammam’s original purpose as a gathering space and social hub. By delving into the hammam’s past, Yazgan’s team discovered a set of ancient Byzantine cisterns beneath the museum’s foyer, showcasing graffiti of atypical ships, believed to have been used by the Ottoman navy’s infamous admiral, Hayreddin Pasha, also known as Barbarossa. The hammam was commissioned by Barbarossa as a philanthropic effort to safeguard his legacy. Renowned Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan designed the Çinili Hamam, adorning the walls with blue and white Iznik tiles, inspired by Chinese porcelain. Throughout its history, the hammam suffered damage from fires and earthquakes before falling into private ownership. It was then that its tiles were removed and sold to French antique dealer Ludovic Lupti. The tiles’ whereabouts remained unknown until a connection was made between the Çinili Hamam and several tile fragments inscribed with “Tchinily Hamam.” Collaborating with academics, Yazgan’s team successfully identified tiles in museums across Europe, including those at London’s Leighton House Museum. However, instead of replicating the original tile work during the restoration, Yazgan chose to use bare marble, offering a modern yet timeless interpretation. The hammam will soon reopen for paying customers, but prior to that, a temporary exhibition entitled “Healing Ruins” allows visitors to experience this cultural heritage site free of charge. Curated by Anlam de Coster, the exhibition features works by international artists who responded to the unique space within the hammam. The exhibition highlights themes of ruin, history, and healing, emphasizing the importance of preserving historical sites and connecting with our past. As the Çinili Hamam prepares to resume its function as a bathhouse, it will continue to provide glimpses into its former life through the adjacent museum, showcasing fragments of the original tile work and an augmented reality experience depicting its 16th-century appearance. Despite the extensive restoration process, Yazgan’s attachment to the hammam remains, as she seeks to ensure its recognition as an invaluable piece of Istanbul’s cultural heritage. She hopes that ongoing research into the Byzantine cisterns, ship graffiti, and tile history will continue to evolve, uncovering more fascinating stories and insights.

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