House of Seasoning Grill, located just a short walk from Berkshire Medical Center in Pittsfield, Mass., is bringing the vibrant flavors of West Africa to the city’s west side. Owners Mathieu Niamke and Raissa Doumbia exude confidence when asked if they would consider bringing their Cote d’Ivoirian cuisine to Albany, stating, “We’re not afraid!” According to Niamke, their food stands out among the offerings from Ghana, Senegal, and Nigeria because of his wife’s incredibly flavorful seasoning that permeates every layer of the meat. They are fully aware of the quality of their food and the unique experience it offers.
The exclusivity and depth of Doumbia’s proprietary seasonings, passed down from her grandparents and perfected over time, only add to the allure of House of Seasoning Grill. Niamke refuses to divulge any information about the ingredients or ratios, emphasizing their closely guarded nature. However, when tasting their dishes, you can detect the presence of smoked paprika, fragrant cumin, bold black pepper, and a hint of Cameroon pepper, which lends a rich depth to the subtly numbing tomato condiment.
The menu at House of Seasoning Grill encompasses a variety of dishes infused with “African arome,” a term they use to encompass the diverse array of African spices they incorporate. One standout is the Choukouya chicken, beautifully darkened with jerk seasonings and boasting a flavorful combination of garlic and cayenne. Anchoring every dish is a warm and savory flavor profile that resonates throughout the menu. Side dishes feature elements of tartness and sourness from ingredients like tamarind and cassava root, offering a unique twist.
As you approach the restaurant from the parking lot, the rustic brown siding gives it the appearance of a cozy saloon. However, stepping inside reveals a vibrant space adorned with bright red and yellow paint and African artwork. The bar, an element retained from the previous establishment, adds a touch of familiarity. While the high-top tables and stools could be found in any regional bar, the food itself offers a comforting embrace reminiscent of home cooking.
This warm and inviting atmosphere is representative of the hospitality that Cote d’Ivorians are known for. House of Seasoning Grill upholds this tradition by welcoming strangers to share a meal, making guests feel right at home. Indulge in dishes like attiéké poisson grille (grilled fish with cassava couscous) or gigot (barbecue roasted lamb shanks) while sipping on refreshing South African sauvignon blanc or Niamke’s housemade sorrel infused with sugar, cinnamon, and mint.
During my visit, the gigot was not yet available, so I opted for the dibi instead. This delicious dish features sliced marinated lamb, grilled to perfection and served with seasoned onions tinged with tamarind, cumin, and barbecue spice. The lamb chops are exceptionally thin, reminiscent of cuts you would find at a New York City butcher. Niamke personally selects live lamb and chickens from a market in the Bronx, ensuring the utmost freshness and quality in their meats. Unlike mass-produced supermarket chickens, the meat here is firm and full of flavor. It’s clear that House of Seasoning prioritizes freshness, with no freezing involved in their process.
The whole fried fish at House of Seasoning Grill boasts a satisfyingly crunchy skin and tender flesh. I relished the experience of extracting the intact fish spine. They offer both fried poisson grille, made with croaker, and grilled poisson braise, made with tilapia. Served alongside are delectable side dishes like sour attiéké and pounded cassava fufu, perfect for scooping or dunking in their African peanut soup, a weekend favorite made with imported African peanuts. Unique options like Ivorian kenkey, a sour maize boule with a firm, pasty texture, paired with chile-spiked tomato sauce or mixed-herb green sauce and savory fried plantains, showcase the wide range of flavors and textures offered here.
For dessert, don’t miss out on degue, an African yogurt dessert featuring sweet millet couscous and hints of African spices. The naturally sweetened millet and sour cream combine to create a beautifully balanced and refreshing treat. Even with multiple entrees, sides, drinks, and a dessert, the bill at House of Seasoning Grill remains surprisingly affordable, coming in just under $100 before tax and tip.
Niamke and Doumbia met in their coastal hometown of Abidjan in Cote d’Ivoire before moving to Queens in 2013 and later to Pittsfield in 2017. Recognizing the growing West African population in the area, they saw an opportunity to introduce the flavors of their culture to the community. Nationwide, the number of West African immigrants has significantly increased over the years, leading to the emergence of West African restaurants in metropolitan areas. However, the presence of such establishments in upstate regions remains limited. Despite the warm reception they have received in Pittsfield, Niamke believes there is room for further growth. As a result, they are considering pop-ups in the Capital Region to introduce more people to the delightful cuisine of Cote d’Ivoire. Personally, I am eagerly anticipating this opportunity.
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