During my trip to Cunda Island, I was struck by the stark contrast between Turkey’s Aegean region and the bustling Mediterranean coastline in the south. While the southern resorts are filled with foreign tourists, the northern Aegean region attracts mostly Turkish visitors. This means that instead of catering to the desires of European holidaymakers, the coastal towns and villages offer an authentic taste of Turkish life.
The Aegean region has its own unique character. The waves of immigration, its westerly orientation, and the proximity to Greek islands give it a more cosmopolitan feel. In fact, the city of İzmir is often referred to as Turkey’s San Francisco.
Below, I’ve compiled a list of places that may not be ideal for week-long stays, but when combined, provide an opportunity to truly immerse oneself in the wonders of Turkey.
Alaçatı:
During summer weekends, Alaçatı, a former Greek fishing village, is bustling with couples from Istanbul and İzmir. They are drawn to the charming mix of hip hotels, streets adorned with bougainvillea flowers, and cocktail bars housed in beautifully restored Ottoman houses and Greek-style stone mansions. This town is known as Turkey’s favorite foodie destination, with over 200 restaurants offering traditional Turkish dishes and freshly made salads. One standout eatery is Papazz, run by the Murat family, which serves delicious sourdough bread and succulent lamb. Other notable restaurants include Fava and Sota, which offer traditional meze and excellent sushi and seafood, respectively. A great place to stay in Alaçatı is İncirliev, a charming B&B with a shady garden and two old stone houses.
Cunda:
Cunda Island, linked to the town of Ayvalık by a causeway, is a hidden gem that combines Greek and Turkish influences. It has become a popular weekend retreat for city dwellers from Istanbul and İzmir. Cunda is home to chic cafes, cocktail bars, traditional restaurants, and specialty food shops. While there isn’t a beach on the island, it is a great place to spend a couple of days exploring the antique shops in Ayvalık and enjoying a coffee and simit at the Kahramanlar bakery. The sunset views from Taş Kahve and the trendy La Fuga cocktail bar are not to be missed. For accommodation, Otel Sobe is a restored stone house with a lovely courtyard for breakfast and its own beach club.
Çeşme:
Just a short drive from Alaçatı, Çeşme offers a different atmosphere with its bustling resort town vibe. It is a popular destination for families, boasting a long seaside promenade, family-friendly hotels, and a variety of reasonably priced traditional restaurants. The area is renowned for its windsurfing, kiting, and winging opportunities, and Ilıca beach is especially great for visitors of all ages. Çeşme is dominated by a 16th-century castle that now serves as an archaeological museum. From here, ferries run twice daily to the Greek island of Chios, providing the chance for a twin-country adventure. Çeşme also serves as a gateway to the Urla wine route, a collection of vineyards and olive oil farms offering tastings and tours. For accommodation, the Eski Taş Otel is a renovated stone house with a small pool, conveniently located in Çeşme’s charming old town.
Foça:
Foça is one of Turkey’s cittaslows, recognized for its slow pace and commitment to sustainable living. This charming town, situated around a small bay, offers fishing boats lining the waterfront, picturesque sunsets, and the chance to spot monk seals in neighboring bays. While Foça doesn’t have its own beach, nearby Mersinaki beach is just a mile away. Exploring the area on a day boat trip is highly recommended, as it allows for visits to nearby bays and uninhabited islands. Every Sunday, the town holds a market where local growers sell organic produce and the restaurants receive fresh fish and seafood from the fishing boats. The Navalia hotel is a great place to stay, located right on Karakum beach.
Şirince:
Nestled in the hills south of İzmir, Şirince village is a true gem. Its cluster of Ottoman houses with terracotta roofs and jade-green shutters against whitewashed walls create a picturesque setting. Şirince is located in İzmir’s wine country, and its car-free center is filled with wine caves, olive oil shops, handicraft shops, and cafes where coffee is prepared traditionally, in hot sand. The village is a short distance from Ephesus, Turkey’s most stunning ancient site. Staying a night or two in Şirince allows visitors to enjoy the peaceful mornings, tranquil evenings, and the views from restaurant terraces. Şirincem and Artemis are two excellent restaurants in the area. For accommodation, Nişanyan Evleri offers restored mansions overlooking olive groves and vineyards.
By exploring these unique destinations, visitors can truly experience the beauty and authenticity of Turkey.
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