If you happen to be in Manhattan during the month of August, consider yourself fortunate. This is because the city offers a unique and exciting opportunity for a self-guided tour of its architecture, history, and economy, right in the heart of Park Avenue. Through its Summer Streets program, New York shuts down Park Avenue for the first three Saturdays of August, from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., opening it up exclusively for cyclists, walkers, and joggers. It is the only time when you can truly appreciate the magnificent skyline of Manhattan. Whether you choose to explore by bike or on foot along the eight-lane Park Avenue, you will be treated to a 360-degree view of the city, allowing you to marvel at the impressive height of each building and compare them to their neighboring counterparts.
Starting your journey near Grand Central, you will first be amazed by the section of Park Avenue itself. Contrary to popular belief, Park Avenue is not simply an asphalt road but the roof of Metro-North train tunnel leading to the northern suburbs. Just over a century ago, the train tracks belonging to New York Central, the monopoly at the time, were exposed, posing a danger to pedestrians and dividing Manhattan. However, urged by the city and state governments, New York Central buried the tracks and created a new business hub centered around the modern Grand Central, which opened in 1913. The oldest buildings in the area, which are not made of glass, date back to this Terminal City era.
During Summer Streets, you can bike or walk over Grand Central’s lacy green viaduct from the south and enjoy a full-frontal view of the terminal’s beautiful facade before passing under the Helmsley Building. As you head north, you will witness New York’s post-World War II economic transformation, where the focus shifted from factory workers to white-collar office workers. The mid-rise glass-and-steel towers in the 50s blocks, including the iconic Lever House on 54th Street, became home to hundreds of thousands of management and finance professionals in the 1950s and 1960s, forming the backbone of New York’s modern tax base. Beyond the office district lie the pre-war limestone-and-brick apartment buildings, designed for financiers, investors, and executives. These buildings represent an ideal level of density, which is why they come with a hefty price tag. Residents benefit from being in close proximity to other affluent individuals and the bustling business district.
As you make your way north from Central Park North, take a moment to glimpse south across the park and observe the mostly empty supertall condos on 57th Street. These luxurious buildings offer breathtaking views in all directions without being detached from the vibrant street life below. Above 97th Street, the Metro-North train tracks become visible again, and Park Avenue transitions into public housing as well as more affordable private rentals. It’s an urban paradox – concealing the tracks would attract wealthier residents and drive out the working class and poor, while leaving them exposed lowers property values and allows for more affordable housing with a slightly diminished quality of life.
Summer Streets then takes a westward turn. From Central Park North, take another moment to gaze south across the park and admire Harlem’s beautifully renovated brownstones and mid-rise apartment buildings. This neighborhood has experienced a successful revitalization starting in the 1980s due to both private and public investment. You may notice a few modern glass structures popping up, signaling luxury and attracting newcomers. Once you reach 125th Street and Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard, turn around and head back south on Park Avenue. Here, you can truly appreciate the diverse range of real estate in New York City. Take a moment to compare the 1960s-era MetLife building, once the target of criticism, with the Beaux-Arts 1920s-era Helmsley Building. Don’t forget to pay a visit to the iconic Waldorf Astoria Hotel on 50th Street, and catch a glimpse of the Roosevelt Hotel, located to the west at 45th Street. Although neither of these buildings is currently operating as a hotel – the Roosevelt now serves as a migrant center and the Waldorf is undergoing a conversion into luxury condos by a financially troubled Chinese company – their fate offers interesting insight into the future of New York.
As you continue south of Grand Central, you will find Park Avenue transforming into Lafayette and Centre streets, passing by the original MetLife building and its clock-face tower from the early 20th century near Madison Square. The journey takes you past the Union Square market tents, through Astor Place, and the exciting promise of a new Wegmans supermarket replacing an old Kmart through adaptive reuse. Eventually, you will find yourself in Chinatown, filled with bustling restaurant-supply shops, and then arrive at the court and local-government district near the Brooklyn Bridge. Many of the Renaissance-style buildings in this area were constructed over a century ago with the financial support of the corrupt Tammany Hall, as the city’s tax base could sustain such corruption. It’s a contrast of brick against glass, affluent residents living not too far from the less fortunate, Harlem’s hair-braiding shops just a few miles away from the dim sum restaurants of Chinatown, and government offices within reach of the companies and citizens they serve. This physical evidence is a testament to the success of a balanced and thriving city, at least for now.
Nicole Gelinas, a columnist for the Manhattan Institute’s City Journal, believes that Summer Streets presents a fantastic opportunity for people to delve into New York’s rich history and gain a deeper understanding of the city’s development over time.
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