Greetings to all in Albania! My kayaking guide, Gigo, effortlessly paddles along the water and shouts, “Hello, over there in Albania!” Although we’re in Montenegro, we are just a few meters away from the Albanians. We’re exploring the Buna River, a 40km stretch of water that divides the two countries. The tranquility of this river amplifies every sound, from the dip of our paddles to the Muslim call to prayer.
I’m on a six-day kayaking adventure, following a 70km route that crisscrosses the border. We begin in Lake Skadar, the largest lake on the Balkan peninsula, spanning both Montenegro and Albania. This aquatic journey takes us along the Montenegrin side of the lake, then onto the Albanian shores, and finally to the Adriatic Sea. With a combination of wild camping, homestays, and waterfront cabins, this trip is the perfect escape from urban life that I’ve been longing for.
Our expedition begins in Murići, a small fishing village where Gigo, a local Montenegrin, briefs us on kayaking techniques and safety. The snow-covered Accursed Mountains of Albania, reflected perfectly in the water, compete for our attention. Although I have some kayaking experience, I feel a bit rusty. However, after a quick lesson, my confidence grows, even though I happen to be the oldest in the group. The group consists of a Montenegrin woman in her twenties and two British individuals in their forties.
We start our journey gently and make a stop at Beška Island, home to a 15th-century monastery inhabited by 16 Serbian Orthodox nuns. It’s surreal to reach an island that feels like a completely different world so quickly. After a tour and some homemade pomegranate juice, we continue paddling along the limestone shoreline, passing another island with a monastery occupied by monks. Over the next two days, we explore the Montenegrin waters, kayaking for four to five hours a day with regular breaks.
Our plans to camp at Bobovište on the shores of the lake are changed due to strong winds known as “bura.” This dry, cold wind is not something to be taken lightly on Lake Skadar. Instead, we head to our homestay in Ckla a day early and watch the water transform from calm to chaotic from the safety of our wooden house.
The next day, we retrace our steps in a support minivan to kayak the section we missed due to the wind. Although the wind creates a few waves, it’s not enough to be unsafe. However, it does bring about an emotional storm within me as I question if my age is holding me and the rest of the group back. Gigo offers gentle encouragement, reminding us that this is not a race and that taking it slow is the best way to enjoy the journey.
That evening, we stay with the Kovaçi family, who operate an ethnographic museum in their home in a small village in the Ana e Malit region. They identify as Albanian Montenegrins and treat us to a feast of Albanian cuisine, served on a round table at floor level. Plates of japrak, burek, slow-cooked beef, and a variety of vegetables are accompanied by glasses of rakia.
Before we embark on kayaking into Albania the next morning, two Montenegrin policemen visit our homestay to check passports and sign us out of their country. Undiscovered Balkans is the only adventure company in Montenegro offering a cross-border kayaking trip, and the police seem slightly bemused by the idea. However, they wave us off like old friends once we hit the water.
The tempered bura wind becomes our ally as we paddle further into Albanian waters. We drift alongside ancient olive groves, observing pelicans gathering on nesting islands, and cherishing the peacefulness of our surroundings. I fall into an effortless rhythm, feeling relaxed and appreciating the mental clarity that being on the water brings.
Throughout the journey, the juxtaposition of cultures is evident in these borderlands. Place names are in both Montenegrin and Albanian, and the architecture reflects a blend of Ottoman and communist influences. The cultural heritage in this region is rich and complex. The lifestyle, however, is shared, as subsistence farmers bring their goats to graze among the olive groves, smallholdings are marked by stone walls, elderly women tend to their plants, and men shepherd cattle along dusty lanes parallel to the river.
Our only urban stop is in the Albanian city of Shkodër, nestled in the foothills of the Accursed Mountains. This is where we leave the lake and continue along the Buna River, passing the city’s impressive Illyrian fortress as the sun sets. We have dinner in the city but spend the night at Legjenda, a glamping site on the river, where each cabin features unique wooden carvings and stained glass created by the owners.
As we paddle the following day, the Accursed Mountains fade into the distance, and the river widens, surrounded by willow trees. We encounter a few local fishermen in their traditional green or yellow boats and carefully maneuver around their nets. That night, we camp beside an abandoned border post, where nature has reclaimed the remnants of the country’s conflicted past. Gigo prepares a delicious risotto over a campfire for dinner and wakes up early to make eggs with sudžuk sausage for breakfast.
Our journey concludes with a wide stretch of river opening up to the sea. We paddle past modern riverside cabins, a complete contrast to the remote villages we’ve seen over the past few days. Even here, we are greeted with waves and smiles, as kayaking is still a relatively new activity in this area, and tourists are not common. Our final night is spent in one of these contemporary cabins on stilts. We swim at sunset and wake up to paddle into the waves of the Adriatic Sea at Velika Plaža, back in Montenegro. At this point, it doesn’t really matter which country I’m in anymore. I am simply grateful to have been warmly welcomed into this natural paradise, where wilderness and serenity reign supreme.
This extraordinary trip was provided by Undiscovered Balkans and costs as low as £945 per person for seven nights. The price includes camping for three nights (depending on conditions), four nights in local guesthouses or apartments, transfers to and from Podgorica, all meals and select snacks, five days of guided kayaking, equipment rental, fees for Lake Skadar National Park and border crossings. Additionally, a donation to conservation projects in Montenegro and Albania is included. Trips are scheduled between April and October.
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