During my time as a sommelier in Montreal, I immersed myself in a vast array of “tech sheets,” which were detailed documents designed to enhance our understanding of the origins of various wines and ensure the accuracy of our storytelling at the table. One common theme that emerged from these sheets was the transformation of individuals or couples seeking a change who ventured into winemaking after attending oenology school or learning from their peers. I thoroughly enjoyed sharing these stories with customers, tales of courageous winemakers who had left behind financial stability. In fact, I was so enamored with these stories that I decided to embark on my own winemaking journey. Three years ago, I left Canada and settled on a farm in Germany to pursue my passion for wine production.
In recent years, a significant event has caused many people to reevaluate their lives. The trend of moving to the countryside to experiment with unique flavors, such as cabbage-flavored kombucha, has gained popularity. However, within the world of wine, this phenomenon was already well underway. Known as “néo-vignerons” in France, individuals from diverse backgrounds have embraced winemaking. Some may be teachers, journalists, or even artists, like Jutta Ambrositsch, who started as a graphic designer before becoming a winemaker in Vienna. Others transition from careers in hospitality, crossing the thin line between selling and making wine. There are also chefs, such as Laurent Saillard, who once worked in New York but now thrives as a celebrated vintner in the Loire Valley.
Moreover, there is a category of people with a scientific background who possess an advantage in winemaking due to their knowledge in chemistry. Grapes have a natural inclination to turn into vinegar, and it takes expertise in various yeasts and bacteria to guide them towards becoming wine. Understanding the ideal harvest dates, winemaking techniques, aging process, and the choice of containers also necessitates scientific understanding.
Daniel and Nicola Ham, who run Offbeat Wine, a small winery in Wiltshire, UK, previously worked in marine biology. They explained that they were deeply connected to nature and trained in ecology but desired a more hands-on and creative pursuit, which led them to winemaking. The Hams represent a larger movement of people who have found their calling in organic or biodynamic viticulture. Many career changers who venture into winemaking gravitate towards this approach. Most of these new projects are intentionally small-scale to ensure a manageable workload and a good quality of life.
Late-blooming vintners often show less concern for regulations and the weight of regional traditions, opening up opportunities for creative experimentation when it comes to winemaking techniques. For instance, Jasmin Swan, a former restaurant worker turned vintner in Germany’s Rheinhessen region, has successfully crafted an unconventional blend of Riesling and Dornfelder, creating an attractive dark rosé called Doris. Many newcomers choose to work outside the established system of specific regional classifications, prioritizing their freedom over recognizable seals of approval. This allows for the production of wines classified as Deutscher Wein or Vin de France, depending on style and vintage.
The wine world has become increasingly open and accessible. Stories abound of vineyards discovered on eBay or through online wine communities. Aspiring winemakers often opt for affordable, under-the-radar regions where they can rent or buy vineyards instead of planting new ones. This approach allows them to start production immediately and generate income. Although some vineyards may be in poor condition, the age of the vines is still valuable. In the realm of nature, time cannot be bought. Some new projects even bypass the tedious task of tending to land altogether by purchasing grapes instead.
When my husband and I began our search for a farm, we posted an ad on a wine forum, and eventually, luck was on our side. Our project, Wein Goutte, covers three and a half hectares of vineyards where we craft wines, ciders, vermouths, and even cultivate some vegetables. Like many néo-vignerons, we sought a major lifestyle change, leaving behind stressful jobs and embracing a quieter existence with a sense of purpose. However, it’s important not to romanticize this lifestyle too much. As winemaker Agnes Lovecká from Slobodné in Slovakia puts it, the idyllic images seen on social media can be misleading. The reality of working in the vineyard does not always resemble picturesque sunsets. Lovecká herself underwent a remarkable transformation, with her family reclaiming their land after the Velvet Revolution and gradually rebuilding their estate. Today, Lovecká and her sister, along with their partners, operate the farm after leaving their office careers in Bratislava. She explains that maturity and a connection to her family roots compelled her to leave the city and join her parents in rural life.
Taking care of vines is a far cry from the structured routine of an office job. It blurs the boundaries between professional and personal life, requiring a diverse set of skills encompassing not only an understanding of nature and fermentation but also accounting, commerce, communication, and human resources. Winemaking demands patience as one waits for grapes to ripen, juice to ferment, and wine to age. There is only one opportunity each year to get it right, and countless details can go awry. Unpredictable weather events such as hail, frost, heatwaves, and fires can devastate a vineyard in mere minutes. This rollercoaster of climatic chaos, which has intensified over the past decade, shows no signs of slowing down.
Despite the eco-anxiety and the never-ending paperwork, I wouldn’t trade this life for anything. Like many others, I sought a significant change in lifestyle and longed for a daily routine that embraced natural light, replacing late nights at a restaurant with early bedtimes and waking up with the sunrise. I discovered the true meaning of my life at the bottom of a tank, once I had meticulously cleaned it. Even when things don’t go according to plan, a glass of homemade wine is a comforting consolation.
Emily recommends… Wines from people who started over:
RED
– Ormiale, Borto 2018, Vin de France, 16% ABV, £84, available at Dynamic Vines
– Domaine Hauvette, Cornaline 2017, Les Baux de Provence, 13% ABV, £51.50, available at Les Caves de Pyrene
WHITE
– Offbeat, Field Notes 3 2021, England, 10% ABV, £29, available at Gnarly Vines
– Laurent Saillard, Lucky You! 2022, Vin de France, 12.5% ABV, £27, available at Wright’s Wine
– Jutta Ambrositsch, Satellit 2020, Wiener Gemischter Satz, 12.5% ABV, £22, available at Newcomer Wines
ROSÉ
– Katla Wines, Heks 2021, Europäischer Wein, 11% ABV, £32, available at Sager and Wine
– Slobodné, Rebela Rosa 2021, Hlohovec, 12.5% ABV, £24.50, available at Modal Wines
SPARKLING
– Valentin Morel, Crémant du Jura NV, 12.5% ABV, £54, available at Newcomer Wines
Emily Campeau is the co-founder of Wein Goutte.
Jancis Robinson is away.
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