Cillian Murphy’s portrayal of the ruthless gang leader Thomas Shelby in Peaky Blinders has sparked a surge in popularity for vintage flat caps over the past seven years. However, Murphy’s new role in the biographical thriller Oppenheimer is now influencing a different style of headwear. Retailers are experiencing an uptick in demand for fedoras, which resemble the hat worn by Murphy in his portrayal of the “father of the atomic bomb”. In fact, John Lewis reports a 21% increase in fedora sales compared to flat caps, and specialist hatmakers Herbert Johnson are seeing a growing interest in the style among younger customers.
The hat worn by J Robert Oppenheimer played a crucial role in his iconic image. Alongside costume designer Ellen Mirojnick, both Murphy and director Christopher Nolan were actively involved in selecting the ultimate hat for the character. Mirojnick describes Oppenheimer as a rock star-like figure and emphasizes the significance of his distinctive look, which embodies the power of communication. During the film, Nolan requested that no other characters wear hats, despite the story spanning decades when hats were commonly worn.
In an interview with the LA Times, Nolan compared Oppenheimer’s hat to Freddie Mercury’s teeth, explaining its specific and meticulous nature. Mirojnick, having been unable to locate the original hat, was provided with several photographs of Oppenheimer wearing it at Princeton and during his time at the Los Alamos laboratory. The real hat had a wide brim and a flat crown, which technically differentiates it from a typical fedora or porkpie hat.
Due to its unique design, Mirojnick commissioned a hat maker to replicate it. After several unsuccessful attempts, she enlisted the expertise of Baron Hats, a Los Angeles-based hatter specializing in film productions. Working from reference pictures, the founder of Baron Hats, Mark Mejia, took Murphy’s measurements using an antique conformateur to ensure a perfect fit. Following the creation of a specific hat block, Mejia collaborated with Mirojnick, Murphy, and Nolan for a fitting. The fabrication process posed a challenge, as the hat was made from undyed beaver felt, making it lighter in weight than most hats available. This required ordering special materials for the film. Two months later, the final hat was completed.
Mirojnick expressed her satisfaction with the hat, believing it to be perfect when she unwrapped it and placed it on Murphy’s head. She emphasizes that the hat makes a bold statement, perfectly completing Oppenheimer’s silhouette. Its presence is so distinctive that even just seeing Oppenheimer’s shadow would be enough to recognize him.
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