Choosing the Right Tomato: Tinned, Puree, Passata, Fresh…When and How to Use Them

I always struggle with choosing the right type of tomatoes for different dishes. Can you provide some guidance?


Rob, London E11

Rob, when it comes to tomatoes, you have five options: fresh, tinned, passata, concentrate, and sun-dried. Let’s exclude sun-dried tomatoes, as they are better as a standalone ingredient or used for chopping and incorporating into dishes, according to Jacob Kenedy, chef-owner of Bocca di Lupo in London.
Fresh tomatoes are currently in season, and their quality depends on where you live and purchase them. Kenedy suggests using fresh tomatoes exclusively if they are of high quality and flavorful. However, in the UK, it can be challenging to find such tomatoes at supermarkets.

In certain scenarios, only fresh tomatoes will suffice. Sophia Massarella, the talent behind Polentina in east London, uses Sorrento tomatoes from Campania for dishes like pomodori col riso, salads (such as panzanella), and sauces. She combines fresh and tinned tomatoes for her summer sauce, as the tinned ones add a savory element to balance out the sweetness of fresh tomatoes.

Generally, Kenedy advises opting for tinned, jarred, or tubed tomatoes when cooking and reducing a sauce, especially if you don’t have access to high-quality fresh tomatoes.
When it comes to tinned tomatoes, whole plum tomatoes are often recommended. Massarella suggests using peeled whole tomatoes for better texture, as you can crush them later if needed. However, Kenedy prefers chopped tinned tomatoes when he doesn’t want them to disappear entirely into a dish. He advises avoiding tinned tomatoes that come with added herbs or garlic, as they can taste muddled and overcooked. Regardless of the type, Kenedy recommends cooking tomatoes until they are dry or until the oil rises, which enhances their flavor.

Choosing between tinned tomatoes and passata largely depends on the desired texture. Passata is smooth and doesn’t require blending, making it suitable for soups. If you prefer a saucier texture with small tomato bits, go for tinned tomatoes. If you’re looking to add a concentrated tomato flavor without extra liquid, concentrate (or puree) is the ideal choice for stews.

It can be overwhelming to explore the wide range of tinned and tubed tomato products. Kenedy advises considering price as a guide when shopping in supermarkets or seeking recommendations from knowledgeable staff in smaller retail environments. Antonella brand from Sardinia is seen as a reliable and high-quality option, albeit at a higher price compared to supermarket own-brand ones.

Reference

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